Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi every1,

Im looking at buying a Meguiars G220V2 polisher and retiring my old buffers.

Does anyone here currently have one? Or can provide any feedback on them?

Cheers in advance.

Edited by iwanta34gtr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388409-meguiars-g220v2-polisher-feedback/
Share on other sites

I'd also consider the Concours 900 Polisher from Waxit (SAU Trader). This looks to have more grunt than a lot of others. I have one of the cheaper Porter Cable units similar to the old Meguiar's ones. It is ok but lacks the ability to get out things like sanding marks. I haven't tried a wool pad with it though. A rotary polisher would be able to do that but requires a bit more skill and care to be taken. I have been thinking about buying one of these Concours 900 units.

iwanta34gtr,

Hi mate,

we are having a detailing workshop in Sydney on the 4th Feb. Why dont you come down and I can show you how it works before you buy one.

Its only $30.00 to come along and to Book click here

Hi mate, Thanks for the details.

I would be pretty confident using it, just have not seen this model in the flesh yet (to check out the build quality - etc).

Do you have one you will be using on the day? And do you sell them?

Cheers.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

not too sure how the meguiars ones are, but i tried a mothers palm polisher once, it was okay but dont think it would do any good paint correction.

i use a bosch gex150T - about 350 bucks from bunnings but its good for most machine corrections, and with a forced rotation mode which is highly recommended.

alot of final inspection guys use it :)

otherwise theres festools but their mighty expensive.

Hey mate,

Cheers for the info, I actually have a Mothers buffer at the moment, i will be keeping it one as part of my kit (Your right, its not for paint correction, however I will still use it for final waxing - and to save whatever wear and tear I can on my good polisher, whether its a meguiars one or not.)

I'm am still leaning towards biting the bullet, buying one online and getting it sent over.

Hi every1,

I am looking at buying one of these polishers, it would be sent over from the UK.

Wanted to confirm - I would obviously need to buy an aus plug / adaptor (as it would have a UK plug) but would it need anything else? (transformer to convert voltage - etc?)

Just wondering if anyone knew? I had another member PM me about that and it got me thinking.

Ebay link to the polisher is attached - http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649

Cheers in advance.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

Seriously, for that price of around $330 delivered, I would consider buying one locally for several reasons, the most important being warranty.

If you're on a budget: Concours 900 kit

http://www.waxit.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=586&category_id=34&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

If you have a bit more to spend: Bosch Gex 150T

If you have a lot more to spend: Flex 3401 or Festool Rotex

Thanks Eugene, I was actually thinking about warranty this afternoon and your right - it would be a pickle.

I did call Meguiars today and confirmed that they have no plans to sell the polisher locally, and they actually suggested that I purchase a Makita or Bosch one.

Will definately look further in to this - thanks again.

Guys I HIGHLY RECCOMEND the CONCOURS 900. I had a DAS 6/G220V2 and didn’t mind it but it bogged down WAY to easy. At waxit one day and Antonio made me try the Concours 900 (thinking oh yea it’ll be the same as all others I have used). I would have to say torque seemed up by 20% or so and worked great. I have now moved onto a Flex VRG3401 which is ALOT more expensive but in its range and for a hobbyist you CANNOT go past the Concours 900. Plus support the people that support your forum and club!

Regards,

Mitch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...