Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well just got a heap of detonation on my 25 and have decided to pull the motor down and rebuild it.......again, the only things im going to need to change will be pistons,headgaskeet and new bearings.

i have done the n1 pump,oil pump drive gear,oil restrictors,26 rods,arp studs everywhere blah blah blah.

chasing 400hp and i know a standard 25 will do it but im wanting a bit of safety so decided of forged pistons and cometic headgasket, what brand pistons are doing well in 25's at the moment and what ones to stay away from, going to be boring it out 40 thou aswell.

tim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388464-rb25det-forged-pistons/
Share on other sites

Sounds too far fine to even bother comp testing if you are getting oil ontop of the piston...

Its kind of hard to say. I do know you can get drop in forged pistons which fit the standard bore but do you know if your bores are good? Is the crack still fine? Lots of things to check. If you were upgrading a healthy motor it would be fine, buy if you got a heap of detonation, you need to sus it out. Even head valves, are they still good?

Hyper gear on here has replacement pistons, I think cp make direct replacements.

going to be boring it out 40 thou aswell.

Why?

Only go as far as you require.

Get a set of Weisco/CP/Mahle from the states. All are good, little issues with any really. More about getting the numbers/build right.

My engine builder said to avoid mahle, they are apparently very loud and the way they are made you have to bend the oil squirters. I just got a set of 86.5mm cp for $800 delivered.

everyone who doesnt have mahles seams to say that yet i've never heard any complaints from people actually using them

If squirters squirt oil through a gallery in the bottom of the pistons into the rings then yes my 25 does.

My new cp pistons don't have the gallery. I just hope that isn't going to cause too many problems.

Edited by lilcrash

The issue is the pistons are solid across the pin supports?? There is no cut out for the squirters in mahle pistons.

I can tell you 100% certain that my block is stock rb25 and it has squirters.

Rb26 and rd28s have the block mounted squirters,

Rb25de/t don't so your most likely using rb26 squirters

lilcrash might suggest another machinist if he is having issues with a basic piston like mahle

je and cp are what id recommend

Dude no offense but you are 100% wrong.

Rb25 definitely have squirters.

Every rb25 I have had the sump off has had more squirters than a Asian porno

well just got a heap of detonation on my 25 and have decided to pull the motor down and rebuild it.......again, the only things im going to need to change will be pistons,headgaskeet and new bearings.

i have done the n1 pump,oil pump drive gear,oil restrictors,26 rods,arp studs everywhere blah blah blah.

chasing 400hp and i know a standard 25 will do it but im wanting a bit of safety so decided of forged pistons and cometic headgasket, what brand pistons are doing well in 25's at the moment and what ones to stay away from, going to be boring it out 40 thou aswell.

tim

valves?

25 valves are knowing to be soft and get worse with age, may not need them but i would change them to be safe.

Valve float you mean...? Not the actual valves...

It's very hit and miss debate that one. Lots of people are fine, lots of people aren't.

If the head is in good condition it shouldn't really be a problem as the aim is very moderate, so there won't be a big huffer going onto it. One of the things you don't really need to "do" unless it is actually a problem.

Plenty have made 350-400rwkw on stock heads without changing the springs.

Ye some get to 300rwkw and get valve float. Suck it an see i say.

http://ipg-supertech.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=1300&category_id=853

take advantage of the aus to american dollar (but thats if you want to go all out nuts with the head) then you'd prob want cams, then solid lifters, then porting next thing you've spent around 4k in parts and labour on just the head

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...