Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This seems near impossible, But just wondering if it can be done from up top or underneath with a mirror or torch. Im trying to figure out if I have Garrett 2650 -5's or the standard R32 GTR's. As I been told from someone they are rebuilt R32's and from another that they are 2560 -5' that had the seals redone.

Ive tried from up top. Can only see the oil sender thing, and 1-1 or something marked on it. Should I just give up lol.

Well after an Hour and a half, with 2 jack stands, 2 LED lights and a adjustable mirror, I managed to find..... hahah and read the tag on the turbo. You need to put the mirror inbetween the 2 front pipes, up on the cast side, then search around with the LED's and you will find it.. eventualy.

It Says 14411-06U00. I did a search on this, and apparently its a Nismo one?? so Not the standard R32 GTR turbos :) The previous owner had them rebuilt too. Can anyone shed any light or info on the 14411-06U00's?

To all those that say you can't without removing parts/pipes or taking engine out. you can :) its called determination lol.

Edited by 91BNR32

What is confusing though, is that is the tag I read off the rear Turbo, 14411-06U00 nismo which is fine, "Garrett A/R 42 M24"

Every pic I find for the nismo says "Garrett A/R *****60***** M24" i.e it says 60 not 42.

Edited by 91BNR32

They both suck equally.

Buy something modern and tune it up.

+1

One set are small and laggy, without a decent top end power punch.

Another set are even laggier, but will make a semi-ok top end.

Basically 1980s designs. There are much newer/decent options available.

Ah that sucks :( Whats a good pair of turbo's for the street that will flow 300rwkw under $2000?

These R32 Nismo ones would only have 1000km on them, they were fully stripped and rebuild before I bought the car. I was thinking Id get the car tuned and if I get around the mark, I might just be happy with that. I don't see the point in speding all that money for another 20-30kw & 200-300rpm less laggier, When I'm just after a 300rwkw street only car. Can anyone understand where I'm coming from lol?

Edited by 91BNR32

Ah that sucks :( Whats a good pair of turbo's for the street that will flow 300rwkw under $2000?

These R32 Nismo ones would only have 1000km on them, they were fully stripped and rebuild before I bought the car. I was thinking Id get the car tuned and if I get around the mark, I might just be happy with that. I don't see the point in speding all that money for another 20-30kw & 200-300rpm less laggier, When I'm just after a 300rwkw street only car. Can anyone understand where I'm coming from lol?

There isn't anything under $2,000.

Plus you are not talking 200-300rpm. It'll be more than that. Upwards of 500rpm.

Anyway the rest of the info, funnily enough, if contained in a thread:

www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/236467-definitive-guide-to-building-300-330awkw-gt-r/

Have a long read of it. Has ALL the info you need.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of the trim pieces on the E39 are super brittle and just dissolve when you try to get them off. It looks like a previous owner has used what can only be described as an industrial construction foam adhesive to glue down a tiny piece of trim.  Unfortunately this part of the tailgate is starting to rust because of how much shit is in here. This is stopping the water draining and there's a big build-up of dirt that is just staying wet. How can I remove this? Would a flap disc get rid of this?  I think this car spent a lot of time inland. There's so much light coloured, fine dirt and dust everywhere.  Sorry for the pic. I've cleaned this all up now so I'll get another pic of it clean today.
    • Surely, just about any shop that has done a Skyline (or Supra, or RX-7, or EVO, or WRX) will have done E85. But perhaps you need to specify what type of car, what type of engine, what ECU, you propose to be using.
    • Try an oil additive. There's a couple of options for "easier shifting". These are essentially a similar idea to what Redline put into their Shockproof gear oils. I had a 2nd hand R33 (in fact, as of right now, it is still in the car) that simply would not engage any gear with the engine running, with normal gear oil in it. We dropped that and replaced it with Shockproof lightweight, and suddenly the gear lever did what it was supposed to. At a cost, of course, of the then ongoing damage to internals done by running Shockproof. But the synchros were already totally uninterested in life, so there was no loss.
    • It always ends with the car burning down.
    • I see what you posted, but how could a warning light be going on and off if there is no sender for it?  The only other explanation is that the wire that used to go to the sender from the warning light is earthing somehow in the loom or at the connector, or that you have connected the warning light wire to something (maybe the temp sender?).  
×
×
  • Create New...