Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Picked up this wreck few days ago.... it's a 1995 non V-spec R33 Gtr. Front end is smashed so front bar, lights, intercooler etc are not available. It's also had a hit on the passenger side. The engine is good so if it doesn't sell i'll keep it as a spare for my race car.

IMG_1278.jpg

IMG_1277.jpg

Parts can be picked up from Valley Heights Sydney or I can ship almost anything at cost.

Check in at the last page of the thread regularly as I'll keep updating what's left, I'll post pics up over the next few days.

Rb26dett engine $3,900

Runs well with good even compression. Complete engine including wiring loom, ECU, turbos, intake and exhaust, injectors, coil packs etc.

R33 Gtr gearbox $800

Non V spec diff $400

Driveshafts $150 each

Hubs $400

Front and rear cradles $150 each

Lower control arms, front $120

Fuel tank $100

Stock R33 Gtr exhaust $250

Stock R33 Gtr suspension $300

Attessa pumps $150

ABS unit $200

Stock air box $200

Has one chipped clip

Intercooler piping $200

Stock BOVs $140

Brake master and booster $100

Pair of R33 Gtr rims $550 (the other two are badly damaged and will go to the scrap yard unless someone wants to make an offer. Been quoted at least $175 per rim to repair).

Brembo brakes $1,500 front and rear or $1,200 fronts and $300 rear

Includes rotors, calipers, lines and pads with plenty of meat.

Front stock strut brace $100

Rear stock strut brace $60

Boot lid with wing $400

Rear bar $250

Tail lights $130 pair

Front bar lights $50 pair

Drivers side front guard $100

Includes Gt badge, good condition apart from a small amount of damage near indicator (see pic)

Inner guard liners with factory air guides $150

-A couple of cracks which do not affect the fit to the car at all.

Front guard GT badge $10

Drivers side door $150

Good condition, does not include interior trims

Drivers Door trim $100 (no window switch)

Passenger side door trim fabric (handy if you want to replace your damaged fabric) $20

Window switch $50 drivers side, $40 passenger side

A pillar trims $50 each

Full set of R33 Gtr floor mats $230

Excellent condition, no holes or cigarette burns. Just need a quick clean.

Centre console $60

Includes Gtr badge. One of the mounting screws is broken however this cannot be seen when the lining is placed inside.

Console stereo surround $30

Gauge cluster with 64,000km $230

Climate control unit $40

Triple gauge cluster $60

Stock stereo $40

Stock steering wheel $150

Air bag is deployed but otherwise good condition (just swap in your good airbag)

Dash pad $100

Rear vision mirror $20

Sun visors $10 each

Rear seats $330

Seat belts $40 each

B/C pillar trims $50 each

Rear trims $70 driver's side (perfect condition) $40 passenger side (has some minor damage)

Complete boot interior $150

Space saver $70

Rear window $200 (Pick up only, you remove or pay for the window dude to remove it)

Set of wipers $50

Wiper motors $50

Everything is for sale, if you need something just ask. I'm also wrecking an R33 gtst so it would help to specify in Pms whether its for Gtr or Gtst!

  • Replies 143
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Are the rocker covers, timing belt cover & coil pack cover available separate to the engine? if so please PM me a price?

Edited by 18RZZ

How much for the front seats?

passenger seat is bent good for fabric and parts $150

driver seat jenna has already flogged and stuck in her gtr

30 bux delivered

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...