Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It's almost the same power as mine made on Jez's dyno with 98ron so it must be there or thereabouts. Comparing it to a different dyno in a different state might be bit hit and miss.

i think he is referring to mine on e85 that was a good 40kw higher... so more a blanket statement about fuels and the turbo's capability

that HTA result is nothing short of amazing!

makes me wish i still had my car so I could do a run on the same or similar boost and see the difference.

but I chickened out on 20psi :/

I'm sure Lithium would agree that the GT3073HTA would also be interesting to see wound up on an RB25 . I don't know if FP would ever consider doing a GT3071HTA but that could also have potential . I don't suppose anyone knows which compressor housings they use with the 71 and 73mm HTA wheels ? I think they use T04S 0.70 AR ones on GT3076HTA turbos .

Thinking about it they have a 68mmHTA compressor and I wonder if it could beat the GTX3067R for a razor sharp 300 WKW capable turbo .

A .

FP do a HTA3071 (51lb/min) as well as the HTA3073 you are aware of, there are a few HTA2868s lurking around too. I most definitely do not overlook the HTA3073 at all, I had actually toiled over recommending that unit to 34GeeTeeTee when we first got to discussing upgrades for him which would give him improved response and no loss of power, but it became clear that he'd get a kick out of the extra headroom to go up to the 380-390rwkw (yep - we specifically discussed that power area prior to the tune).

The HTA3071 has a 51.2mm inducer, 71mm exducer so is a smaller compressor wheel than the GT3071R - again like the HTA3076 vs the GT3076R, so you would be looking at something that would make power somewhere between the GT3071R and GT3076R but be stupidly responsive.

After talking to 34GeeTeeTee about his driving impressions the dyno plot doesn't do it any justice (which to be fair I always knew would be the case, but still).... it sounds nuts, I am sure he will make a post at some point on the matter. If what he has said to me so far is anything to go by, then the HTA3071 would be porn for the likes of DiscoPotato and yourself.

I was just looking at an American board and I think they quoted the 71HTA wheel as having same inducer and exducer sizes as the GTX71mm compressor only 7 blades rather than 11 . I think they also quoted these wheels as both having 51 pounds air flow capacity .

A .

They are wrong, the GTX is 54.1mm inducer which is almost the same as the HTA3076 (54.8). The HTA3076 would probably make the GTX3071R feel lazy, the HTA3071 would be something else methinks.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2

Hey guys,

just bought an r33 gts-25t.

makes 330rwkw @ 20psi and was tuned by Unigroup with a Power Fc

Has an unopened rb25det with:

Garrett Gt3582r 0.82

Generic Stainless Highmount

Turbosmart 45mm Gate

3.5" Kakimoto Mega N1 Exhaust w/ no cat

Siemens 750cc injectors & custom fuel rail

Turbosmart FPR

Warlbo 255 internal and Bosch 044 External Fuel pump + Surge Tank

Power FC

Freddy Plenum

Ace Intercooler

Planning to downsize to a Gt3076r 0.82, swap to a low mount steampipe manifold, fit a quieter exhaust + high flow cat.

Hoping to stay around the 280-300rwkw mark.

just food for thought... if it's a street car you would get away with a stock manifold quite easily with that turbo. only time you will see a REAL benefit is if you run e85 and are pushing 350rwkw however then you are also probably going to need slightly bigger injectors.

also look into the FP 3071 for that power

(so we can see some results :P)

Hahaha good old FP :D

Welcome to the club Bennis, when you get the car bring it around so i can have a look :yes:

Hey guys, We have started a dedicated HTA chat so for all info etc please post up in the new thread here -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/426059-forced-performance-hta-turbos/

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...