Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well Im going to add my two bobs worth...

I have got a PST carbon shaft in my GTR R34 it is the best there is.... you get what you pay for.. you want to go lighter then depending on power you will be buying another one as it will break...

I bought a ACPT shaft and I broke it in a week, it was shit, then they sent me another one as replacement it was suppose to be the 1200hp one, I could not even drive the car above 40 klms/Hr the vibrations were that bad, I rang them they said it had been balanced the service was piss poor and I was pissed off, so I sent it to a engineering shop to get rebalanced. So another $600 for the rebalance and it was ok... I Will never by another one from ACPT they make them for trust, nismo and all the other Jap brands.. they are crap.

By this time I put a Holinger in my car so I spoke to PST drive shaft in the US they custom made one and it is awesome.. good to talk to and the price was very reasonable, it will be better now the Dollar is $1.06 The gearbox will break before the shaft will.

Dont pm me asking stupid questions on the weight, cost or where do you get it, do your research as I did.

Such a helpful guy you are

:thumbsup:

Trent I also have a PST carbon shaft in my car and have fitted one to another car that you would know fairly well. Sold one to another guy and have never had a complaint from him. I also have another one here waiting to be fitted to another car currently in the build.I would recomend them as they were good to deal with and where reasonably priced individually but are flexible on price if you organize a group buy. Give me a call if you want contact details.

Just spoke with Mark at PST (sorry Dazmo, too early to call you).

Price is US$1099 so nearer AU$1025 with the currency around 1.08.

3 1/4" carbon tube which includes joints on each end, ready to bolt in to your car. Weighs around 12 lbs = 5.4kg.

rated to 1000 ft lbs of torque (1355 nm). Said he could make one rated to 1350 if need be for an extra couple of hundred bucks.

shipping likely to be around $150 mark.

Edit:

Torqline shaft failure load in excess of 4000nm.

I know which one i want. just need to find the extra $$$.

Edited by tk80

Just spoke with Mark at PST (sorry Dazmo, too early to call you).

Price is US$1099 so nearer AU$1025 with the currency around 1.08.

3 1/4" carbon tube which includes joints on each end, ready to bolt in to your car. Weighs around 12 lbs = 5.4kg.

rated to 1000 ft lbs of torque (1355 nm). Said he could make one rated to 1350 if need be for an extra couple of hundred bucks.

shipping likely to be around $150 mark.

Edit:

Torqline shaft failure load in excess of 4000nm.

I know which one i want. just need to find the extra $$.

My last dyno graph shows 1012.4 FtLb so I'm out for the PST shaft.

If you go Torqline let me know.....

Just spoke with Mark at PST (sorry Dazmo, too early to call you).

Price is US$1099 so nearer AU$1025 with the currency around 1.08.

3 1/4" carbon tube which includes joints on each end, ready to bolt in to your car. Weighs around 12 lbs = 5.4kg.

rated to 1000 ft lbs of torque (1355 nm). Said he could make one rated to 1350 if need be for an extra couple of hundred bucks.

shipping likely to be around $150 mark.

Edit:

Torqline shaft failure load in excess of 4000nm.

I know which one i want. just need to find the extra $$$.

Thats awesome for the price. Will have to look into getting one for the gts-t.

Just spoke with Mark at PST (sorry Dazmo, too early to call you).

Price is US$1099 so nearer AU$1025 with the currency around 1.08.

3 1/4" carbon tube which includes joints on each end, ready to bolt in to your car. Weighs around 12 lbs = 5.4kg.

rated to 1000 ft lbs of torque (1355 nm). Said he could make one rated to 1350 if need be for an extra couple of hundred bucks.

shipping likely to be around $150 mark.

Edit:

Torqline shaft failure load in excess of 4000nm.

I know which one i want. just need to find the extra $$.

4000Nm... using same / comparable testing method?? that's a shitload more. Will be interested to see how they stand up to the torque from the higher-powered RBs, whichever route you decide to take.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

4000Nm "failure load" is different from 1350Nm torque rating. 4000Nm is the breaking point of the Torqline, 1350Nm is the safe output for use of the PST.

What's the weight difference between the carbon and aluminum ones?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...