Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Had my r34 for 6 months now, Enjoying it as it is and ive finally got it running as i want, Cleared the EPA notice and I have some spare money floating around.

I want to start modding the engine before i start on some cosmetic mods.

Where do i start?!

ive already upgraded the FMIC, BOV, Catback exhaust and manual boost controller, Apart from that the car is stock.

Ive heard theres some "Unrestricting" That can be done, but not sure what exactly that involves.

I dont want to get to excessive, 250-280 KW Is my goal, i figured it would still be fun for trackdays, anymore than that i beleive is a waste especially the way the laws are now.

Ive done a little research regarding ECU's and tunes, injectors, fuel pumps, lines, coil packs and turbo upgrades.

Just not sure what would be the most economical for power gains.

So anyone with a little knowledge on early upgrades or even anyone thats done it before (I know theres a few of you!!) any insight or knowledge would be much appreciated.

Cheers, Daniel.

P.S Not sure if this is in the right section either :S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/
Share on other sites

Hypergear highflow which can be run with all your standard parts(injectors, coils(depending), afm) but as always the ECU will need to be changed and if you are doing an ECU, I'd also do the AFM. Cheapest way to possibly push about 220rwkw.

My injectors maxed just over 200rwkw and the clutch shat itself too >_<

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213052
Share on other sites

Some people here have managed close to 240rwkw from standard injectors, its pushing it but it can be done. For about $150 - $200 you can get the standard ones high flowed to 600 - 800cc.

Ahh I almost forgot the clutch. Generally anything above 180rwkw will send this thing smoking. Factor in another $450 parts for the clutch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213071
Share on other sites

Some people here have managed close to 240rwkw from standard injectors, its pushing it but it can be done. For about $150 - $200 you can get the standard ones high flowed to 600 - 800cc.

Ahh I almost forgot the clutch. Generally anything above 180rwkw will send this thing smoking. Factor in another $450 parts for the clutch.

I paid well over $1000 for my clutch from memory and that included fitting it myself.... They have come down a lot in price now but last i saw they were still about double that price you mentioned.... R34 have the big pull type clutches unlike the R33 :happy:

I fit the genuine Exedy cushioned button and it is an awesome clutch, drives like standard too.... However after the next tune i dont know what its life expectancy is as they are only rated to 330rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213076
Share on other sites

How is there a power difference between an atmo and a recirculating set up? Sorry for the dumb question.

There is no power difference. The BOV has no impact on power making ability. Except.....

Externally venting BOVs do not work well with cars that use an air flow meter to measure the load. If you engine management system still uses the AFM, and if you intend to keep using an AFM into the future (ie if you go with Nistune or PowerFC as management choice) then you DO NOT WANT a venting BOV. They cause metered air to escape the system, but the ECU doesn't know the air got out so it still injects the fuel for it, causing nasty overfuelling at times when the BOV vents (ie, at gearchanges or any time you back off of boost, say in a corner where you've lost traction and want it back).

Recirculating BOVs are the only thing that makes sense with AFM management. More to the point, there's no point in replacing the factory BOV with another recirculating BOV because that's just money wasted, as the factory BOV works fine.

Even more to the point, the factory BOV is in fact a compressor bypass valve as much as it is a BOV. What this means is that it is open at light loads, allowing the air that the engine draws in to go around the turbo compressor. This unloads the compressor and allows it to spool up faster (same exhaust amount and pressure driving the turbine, but less mass flowing through the compressor). A small, but worthwhile thing to have. As you come up towards zero vacuum, the BOV closes, the compressor flows all the air and no-one's the wiser.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213148
Share on other sites

I think that was directed to the legal side of things.

I can vouch for a HKS GTRS, but they are pricey. As others have said, cant go wrong with a highflow. Never had personal experince, but a read through the rb25 dyno thread shows good promise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213152
Share on other sites

I think that was directed to the legal side of things.

I can vouch for a HKS GTRS, but they are pricey. As others have said, cant go wrong with a highflow. Never had personal experince, but a read through the rb25 dyno thread shows good promise.

I wasn't overly happy with my High Flow as it was laggy and had heat issues if you gave it a hard time.... Yes, that is partially due to the tuner being mildly retarded but it made similar power to other cars but just didn't have the same feel....... There are now so many bolt on options available that i would find it hard to justify a high flow......... That being said, i have seen plenty of awesome results listed up on here, but my experience was less than impressive.

So i went high mount 3037-56T :nyaanyaa:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213232
Share on other sites

Haha, yeah i heard and read the lag was an issue. They arent bad for the price though.

Yeah im looking forward to fitting up a gtx3076r on my build. Should see some good numbers on a 2.8 :)

What size housing do you have?

.82 sitting on a 6Boost with Tial gate and plazmaman intake, cooler and TB, should be fun :thumbsup:

The high flow that was on mine when i bought it was ridiculously expensive, i wont post the reciept as it has the original owners details and dont want them online without him knowing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213353
Share on other sites

Nice setup :) proven results too.. Good for ~300rwkw from what i know? Really? Was it a gcg high flow? Haha nah all good, definately understandable.

Is that on a stock capacity 2.5? How do you find the response?

Both "full boost by.." and the "on-off" throttle response?

Ty.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213407
Share on other sites

There is no power difference. The BOV has no impact on power making ability. Except.....

Externally venting BOVs do not work well with cars that use an air flow meter to measure the load. If you engine management system still uses the AFM, and if you intend to keep using an AFM into the future (ie if you go with Nistune or PowerFC as management choice) then you DO NOT WANT a venting BOV. They cause metered air to escape the system, but the ECU doesn't know the air got out so it still injects the fuel for it, causing nasty overfuelling at times when the BOV vents (ie, at gearchanges or any time you back off of boost, say in a corner where you've lost traction and want it back).

Recirculating BOVs are the only thing that makes sense with AFM management. More to the point, there's no point in replacing the factory BOV with another recirculating BOV because that's just money wasted, as the factory BOV works fine.

Even more to the point, the factory BOV is in fact a compressor bypass valve as much as it is a BOV. What this means is that it is open at light loads, allowing the air that the engine draws in to go around the turbo compressor. This unloads the compressor and allows it to spool up faster (same exhaust amount and pressure driving the turbine, but less mass flowing through the compressor). A small, but worthwhile thing to have. As you come up towards zero vacuum, the BOV closes, the compressor flows all the air and no-one's the wiser.

cheers

Thanks for that mate, I couldn't understand how venting to atmo would make any difference in power figures, I didn't understand why the comment was there, I thought the fella that said it was implying that one way was better than another for making power (obviously you don't want your car running rich every time you change gears, lol).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213415
Share on other sites

Some people here have managed close to 240rwkw from standard injectors, its pushing it but it can be done. For about $150 - $200 you can get the standard ones high flowed to 600 - 800cc.

Ahh I almost forgot the clutch. Generally anything above 180rwkw will send this thing smoking. Factor in another $450 parts for the clutch.

My stock clutch held 260kw and a clutch is around 800+ for a decent one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213652
Share on other sites

My stock clutch held 260kw and a clutch is around 800+ for a decent one

How the f**k did it manage that? I had something slightly better than stock(the exedy clutch OE replacement) let go at stock with tune etc at about 180rwkw.

Now Ive got a 5 puk carbotic button clutch, holds all my power fine, grabs even on the dump. $385 for the clutch, pedal isn't too stiff either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213683
Share on other sites

How the f**k did it manage that? I had something slightly better than stock(the exedy clutch OE replacement) let go at stock with tune etc at about 180rwkw.

Now Ive got a 5 puk carbotic button clutch, holds all my power fine, grabs even on the dump. $385 for the clutch, pedal isn't too stiff either.

The main point is, for Danial (Thread starter) to upgrade the car to 260-280 the clutch will need to be decent and the cost of the 34GTT clutch is significantly higher than that of the 33GTST

33 clutches are quite cheap, it seems EVERYTHING you try to do on a 34 costs more, most parts are slightly different yet cost more :domokun:

But the mods are well worth it as the 34 is an excellent choice to modify as they are an awesome car!

And i am not biased in any way :ph34r:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213695
Share on other sites

what you should look at is a garrett 3071R bolt on, some injectors (buy new ones so you know they are right i didnt and they flowed shit and have to buy some new ones pinch.gif ) dump pipe to cat and highfflow cat converter, mate that with a haltech PS2000 for a MAFless tune and see 280KW no worries and all the gear is there if you want to upgrade later :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213706
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...