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Whats Next?

EuphXP

By EuphXP,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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EuphXP Enthusiast

EuphXP

Posted
Posted

Hey guys.

Had my r34 for 6 months now, Enjoying it as it is and ive finally got it running as i want, Cleared the EPA notice and I have some spare money floating around.

I want to start modding the engine before i start on some cosmetic mods.

Where do i start?!

ive already upgraded the FMIC, BOV, Catback exhaust and manual boost controller, Apart from that the car is stock.

Ive heard theres some "Unrestricting" That can be done, but not sure what exactly that involves.

I dont want to get to excessive, 250-280 KW Is my goal, i figured it would still be fun for trackdays, anymore than that i beleive is a waste especially the way the laws are now.

Ive done a little research regarding ECU's and tunes, injectors, fuel pumps, lines, coil packs and turbo upgrades.

Just not sure what would be the most economical for power gains.

So anyone with a little knowledge on early upgrades or even anyone thats done it before (I know theres a few of you!!) any insight or knowledge would be much appreciated.

Cheers, Daniel.

P.S Not sure if this is in the right section either :S

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34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Hypergear highflow which can be run with all your standard parts(injectors, coils(depending), afm) but as always the ECU will need to be changed and if you are doing an ECU, I'd also do the AFM. Cheapest way to possibly push about 220rwkw.

My injectors maxed just over 200rwkw and the clutch shat itself too >_<

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SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Some people here have managed close to 240rwkw from standard injectors, its pushing it but it can be done. For about $150 - $200 you can get the standard ones high flowed to 600 - 800cc.

Ahh I almost forgot the clutch. Generally anything above 180rwkw will send this thing smoking. Factor in another $450 parts for the clutch.

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34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Some people here have managed close to 240rwkw from standard injectors, its pushing it but it can be done. For about $150 - $200 you can get the standard ones high flowed to 600 - 800cc.

Ahh I almost forgot the clutch. Generally anything above 180rwkw will send this thing smoking. Factor in another $450 parts for the clutch.

I paid well over $1000 for my clutch from memory and that included fitting it myself.... They have come down a lot in price now but last i saw they were still about double that price you mentioned.... R34 have the big pull type clutches unlike the R33 :happy:

I fit the genuine Exedy cushioned button and it is an awesome clutch, drives like standard too.... However after the next tune i dont know what its life expectancy is as they are only rated to 330rwkw

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GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

How is there a power difference between an atmo and a recirculating set up? Sorry for the dumb question.

There is no power difference. The BOV has no impact on power making ability. Except.....

Externally venting BOVs do not work well with cars that use an air flow meter to measure the load. If you engine management system still uses the AFM, and if you intend to keep using an AFM into the future (ie if you go with Nistune or PowerFC as management choice) then you DO NOT WANT a venting BOV. They cause metered air to escape the system, but the ECU doesn't know the air got out so it still injects the fuel for it, causing nasty overfuelling at times when the BOV vents (ie, at gearchanges or any time you back off of boost, say in a corner where you've lost traction and want it back).

Recirculating BOVs are the only thing that makes sense with AFM management. More to the point, there's no point in replacing the factory BOV with another recirculating BOV because that's just money wasted, as the factory BOV works fine.

Even more to the point, the factory BOV is in fact a compressor bypass valve as much as it is a BOV. What this means is that it is open at light loads, allowing the air that the engine draws in to go around the turbo compressor. This unloads the compressor and allows it to spool up faster (same exhaust amount and pressure driving the turbine, but less mass flowing through the compressor). A small, but worthwhile thing to have. As you come up towards zero vacuum, the BOV closes, the compressor flows all the air and no-one's the wiser.

cheers

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Dajae Community Regular

Dajae

Posted
Posted

I think that was directed to the legal side of things.

I can vouch for a HKS GTRS, but they are pricey. As others have said, cant go wrong with a highflow. Never had personal experince, but a read through the rb25 dyno thread shows good promise.

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34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

I think that was directed to the legal side of things.

I can vouch for a HKS GTRS, but they are pricey. As others have said, cant go wrong with a highflow. Never had personal experince, but a read through the rb25 dyno thread shows good promise.

I wasn't overly happy with my High Flow as it was laggy and had heat issues if you gave it a hard time.... Yes, that is partially due to the tuner being mildly retarded but it made similar power to other cars but just didn't have the same feel....... There are now so many bolt on options available that i would find it hard to justify a high flow......... That being said, i have seen plenty of awesome results listed up on here, but my experience was less than impressive.

So i went high mount 3037-56T :nyaanyaa:

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34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Haha, yeah i heard and read the lag was an issue. They arent bad for the price though.

Yeah im looking forward to fitting up a gtx3076r on my build. Should see some good numbers on a 2.8 :)

What size housing do you have?

.82 sitting on a 6Boost with Tial gate and plazmaman intake, cooler and TB, should be fun :thumbsup:

The high flow that was on mine when i bought it was ridiculously expensive, i wont post the reciept as it has the original owners details and dont want them online without him knowing.

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Dajae Community Regular

Dajae

Posted
Posted

Nice setup :) proven results too.. Good for ~300rwkw from what i know? Really? Was it a gcg high flow? Haha nah all good, definately understandable.

Is that on a stock capacity 2.5? How do you find the response?

Both "full boost by.." and the "on-off" throttle response?

Ty.

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kawasakirider Grand Master

kawasakirider

Posted
Posted

There is no power difference. The BOV has no impact on power making ability. Except.....

Externally venting BOVs do not work well with cars that use an air flow meter to measure the load. If you engine management system still uses the AFM, and if you intend to keep using an AFM into the future (ie if you go with Nistune or PowerFC as management choice) then you DO NOT WANT a venting BOV. They cause metered air to escape the system, but the ECU doesn't know the air got out so it still injects the fuel for it, causing nasty overfuelling at times when the BOV vents (ie, at gearchanges or any time you back off of boost, say in a corner where you've lost traction and want it back).

Recirculating BOVs are the only thing that makes sense with AFM management. More to the point, there's no point in replacing the factory BOV with another recirculating BOV because that's just money wasted, as the factory BOV works fine.

Even more to the point, the factory BOV is in fact a compressor bypass valve as much as it is a BOV. What this means is that it is open at light loads, allowing the air that the engine draws in to go around the turbo compressor. This unloads the compressor and allows it to spool up faster (same exhaust amount and pressure driving the turbine, but less mass flowing through the compressor). A small, but worthwhile thing to have. As you come up towards zero vacuum, the BOV closes, the compressor flows all the air and no-one's the wiser.

cheers

Thanks for that mate, I couldn't understand how venting to atmo would make any difference in power figures, I didn't understand why the comment was there, I thought the fella that said it was implying that one way was better than another for making power (obviously you don't want your car running rich every time you change gears, lol).

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Bsa Mentor

Bsa

Posted
Posted

Some people here have managed close to 240rwkw from standard injectors, its pushing it but it can be done. For about $150 - $200 you can get the standard ones high flowed to 600 - 800cc.

Ahh I almost forgot the clutch. Generally anything above 180rwkw will send this thing smoking. Factor in another $450 parts for the clutch.

My stock clutch held 260kw and a clutch is around 800+ for a decent one

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SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

My stock clutch held 260kw and a clutch is around 800+ for a decent one

How the f**k did it manage that? I had something slightly better than stock(the exedy clutch OE replacement) let go at stock with tune etc at about 180rwkw.

Now Ive got a 5 puk carbotic button clutch, holds all my power fine, grabs even on the dump. $385 for the clutch, pedal isn't too stiff either.

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34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

How the f**k did it manage that? I had something slightly better than stock(the exedy clutch OE replacement) let go at stock with tune etc at about 180rwkw.

Now Ive got a 5 puk carbotic button clutch, holds all my power fine, grabs even on the dump. $385 for the clutch, pedal isn't too stiff either.

The main point is, for Danial (Thread starter) to upgrade the car to 260-280 the clutch will need to be decent and the cost of the 34GTT clutch is significantly higher than that of the 33GTST

33 clutches are quite cheap, it seems EVERYTHING you try to do on a 34 costs more, most parts are slightly different yet cost more :domokun:

But the mods are well worth it as the 34 is an excellent choice to modify as they are an awesome car!

And i am not biased in any way :ph34r:

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BLITZ-26 Mentor

BLITZ-26

Posted
Posted

what you should look at is a garrett 3071R bolt on, some injectors (buy new ones so you know they are right i didnt and they flowed shit and have to buy some new ones pinch.gif ) dump pipe to cat and highfflow cat converter, mate that with a haltech PS2000 for a MAFless tune and see 280KW no worries and all the gear is there if you want to upgrade later :thumbsup:

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