Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Putting my R32 GTR track car up for sale, was originally purchased to get back on the road but due to unforeseen circumstances, the car now has to go. As the title says, the car is complied and has previously had registration in Victoria. The paint isn't in the best condition has started to fade on the bonnet and roof, part of the left hand quarter is in primer where rust was cut out and re-welded. Drivers side guard has been replaced (black). Crack in the front bar.

This is a 1990 R32 GTR, 230awkw, with a nice set of supporting mods.

I have had this car for just over a year and I loved every bit of her, but unfortunately she has to go.

Things required for RWC:

- small rust hole in the Left Rear Quarter Panel.

Car runs and drives no worries.

Colour: Purple/ Harlequin

RB26DETT

Std Turbos, been rebuilt by ATP on Dandenong Rd, with STEEL Wheels and R33 GTR specs.

Mines ECU, consisting of:

- 10PSi Boost

- Remapped Air/Fuel Ratios

- Rev Limiter Raised 300rpm

Drive-line:

- 5 Speed Manual

- Exedy Twin Plate Organic Clutch (80% Left)

- Power steering rack has been reconditioned

- Turbo Flange Gaskets have been replaced.

- Upgraded Brakes, Slotted Discs all round with 750 deg. brake pads, brand new 90%

Supporting Mods:

- TIEN Coilovers adj. all around

- Adj. Control Arms

- Aftermarket Steering Wheel

- Front Sway Bar

- Rear Strut Brace

- APEXi Pod Filters

- NISMO Turbo Back Exhaust (Legal dB Reading)

- Blitz Turbo Timer.

Car comes with complete interior (dash, seats, trims)

Car will come on R33GTST Rims with 50% Tread tyres.

Car was previously registered, previous owner received a canary and didn't clear it.

The running gear is very healthy, service just completed (oil, oil filter, diff and transmission fluids, and any tests welcome.

This will make a perfect project/track car, with the ability to be road registered. I think that I am asking a fair price, not over the top considering, modifications and registrable.

Can provide paperwork from Vicroads stating that there is no finance owing, never been in an accident.

Also have paperwork from Mines with information about the ECU.

Servicing undertaken at GC Motorworx.

Price: $10,000. NO SWAPS

Located: Victoria

Contact: PM or Text 0439990557

Photos will be uploaded this evening.

  • 2 weeks later...

looks like it needs alot of work befor its an attractive street car.

full paint job.

road worthy,

registration-

panel work.- as mentioned rust

who knows wat engine work needs done at least timing belt as that wasnt done or stated in ur first post...

canary to be cleared which is pain in the ass...

6k...?

spend atleast 6k -8k to get it to a presentable car. peopel are sellign theirs for 14k to 16k here with mods.

Probably has moe personal value to you then wat you could actuly sell it for? just keep it man...

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

HOLY CREP... what happened to this car? this is the car that I bought of you in sydney? and then I sold it when I was down here, and you bought it back again of whoever owned it after me???

WOW...

I was young and dumb back then. Live and learn!

Edited by bLaQ.bOi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...