Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey got a few questions as i started looking through the rb30 thread and the turbo threads and "i" couldn't actually find any info directly related to this. i am building a forged rb30 with rb25de head and fitting a gt35r from an xr6 turbo. what i need to know is what needs to be done to fit it in a r32 as i have read that with a vl you need a spacer for the manifold as not o foul the inlet housing on it and cut the engine mount a bit as not to foul on that either. being that they are for similiar engines i would think so but not entirely sure as i am also fitting a awd adaptor plate to my rb30, and retaing this a a low mount..

thanks any help would be appreciated and moderators of you or anyone else knows of the thread please excuse me as i could not find it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390894-rb30-with-xr6-gt35/
Share on other sites

engine will fits on r32 engine mounts and should clear bonnet just with side fed plenum,

you will need custom dump pipe,intake and cooler piping.

do you have a some sort of ecu for it? wiring?

also factory 20/25 exhaust manifold works grate i had one that i welded an external waistgate to

Edited by Matthew Black

not a very good turbo choice for 250-280rwkw. a highflow, hypergear turbo or a gt3071 will give you much better overall performance

WTF how you figure that??? if a 4ltr barra can spin them too 380 to 400rwkw then an rb30 will piss 250 to 280 rwkw out of it and it's bigger then a gt30 which easily does over 300 rwkw.

and my piece of shitt td06 was doing 230rwkw on an rb20, so ABSOLUTELY NO REASON why this won't punch that out.

it will fit

are your going to use external waistgate?

na mate just going to use the capa 12 psi internal gate and actuator, for a while. the engine is being built to handle 800 hp so i'm basically doing it in stanges, with what i have.

yer it'll make the power easy but you'll have much less midrange and less area under the curve than you would with a turbo to suit your goals. sure you'll get the number on a bit of paper your after but it'll be slower overall and less fun to drive than a smaller turbo'd rb20 making the same peak power.

^^^^^^doesn't make sense as this is a 3ltr, it also has bigger cams so i'm expecting it's go to drive like a strong na off boost, and beside i've seen gt3540rs on sr20 with plenty of mid range, the turbo was actually designed for 2.5 to 4 ltr engines so being a 3 i'm kinda right in the middle, and if a rb25 will push a gt30 to 300rwkw and have plenty of mid range i can't see why a gt35 on a over sized forged rb30 would do any less justice. the engine is being built to handle a flogging.

sorry that was a typo, meant to read:

yer it'll make the power easy but you'll have much less midrange and less area under the curve than you would with a turbo to suit your goals. sure you'll get the number on a bit of paper your after but it'll be slower overall and less fun to drive than a smaller turbo'd rb30 making the same peak power.

gt3540 is good match for rb30 you will get 250-280kw no worries. then when you get the power bug you got more room for more power easily. at the end of the day that's what everyone does just keeps going bigger and better

it would be good to get a .82 rear for better response but for the price on second hand xr6 turbos you not.

well see i'm happy with not being on full boost till 4k as it is a family car still and yeah the 35 has more room for me to grow, so that when we get the clubby back on the road i can do with it what i want, i appreciate what you are saying about the gt30 but it will be maxed out before i reach my goal. of 400rwkw. and isn't the midrange also partially governed by the timing and airflow avaliable??? have considered going a smaller rear wheel but it's not right for me atm. i want the car to drive happily off boost and when i want boost stick my foot into it and enjoy the high revs, the head has had some work done to it like cams and 100lb valve springs and the head i'm using already runs bigger valves from factory then the rb25det, how ever in saying that i would like to port match it aswell as a cnc port and polish but funds are now runnig short. i am also looking at stroking further down the track to 3.4 or more as some friends of mine are doing some RnD into 3.6 atm with billet blocks. so in saying all this is woukd be happier with having the room to grow with the 35 then the 30 also please be aware that this is a genuine garrett ball bearing turbo not a copy, so i think i'll get a little bit better response then other gt35's????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...