Jump to content
SAU Community

Info on a Roll Cage for R32 GTR


Recommended Posts

Hey

Can anyone tell me if you can get a Roll Cage (full cage 6 point+) to fit a R32 GTR with out modding anything at all, like most GTR R32's I have seen have rear seat removed to fit cage and some have cut dashes door trims etc to fit them too.

Im after a cage for my R32 GTR that doesnt require any of that, I want to be able to keep rear seat in and not cut anything or mod anything at all, I know I will have to bolt cage to car floor but dont want to do anything eles if you get me.

If anyone can help me out on were to get one or if anyone has one forsale that meets what im after PM or EMAIL me please, Im after either Jap cage or Australian Cage and it does not have to meet australian racing rules etc

If anyone can help me please

Im in QLD Gold Coast

Thanks

CHASP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive got a 6point rollcage that was previously in my old R32 GTR

let me know if ur interested and if you want Pics!!

Regards

David

[email protected]

Hey

Can anyone tell me if you can get a Roll Cage (full cage 6 point+) to fit a R32 GTR with out modding anything at all, like most GTR R32's I have seen have rear seat removed to fit cage and some have cut dashes door trims etc to fit them too.

Im after a cage for my R32 GTR that doesnt require any of that, I want to be able to keep rear seat in and not cut anything or mod anything at all, I know I will have to bolt cage to car floor but dont want to do anything eles if you get me.

If anyone can help me out on were to get one or if anyone has one forsale that meets what im after PM or EMAIL me please, Im after either Jap cage or Australian Cage and it does not have to meet australian racing rules etc

If anyone can help me please

Im in QLD Gold Coast

Thanks

CHASP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes you will need to get rid of back seats for any decent cage, including half cage. Yes you will need to cut dash, roof and door trims.

If you don't need it for CAMS, I don't think you really want to go thru all the hassle....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...