Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all i need some info from people that have made there stags man.

i am also fitting a R motor as well

i have seen the forms telling u whats involved but i want to know what ever will give me trouble.

i have been told this so far

the box tunnel is different to the auto. so man box wont fit straight in and hand brake as well

s2 man pedal box is different to s1 and wont just bolt in

some thing to do with the awd censer not fitting right

cred in perth was telling me i need a half cut to get body parts off to fit it all

i not want it to be doggy done but done good and right

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391331-info-on-making-my-s1-man/
Share on other sites

Have you read this:

http://www.skylinesd...ead.php?t=51894

and this:

http://www.skylinesa...sion-checklist/

That pretty much covers it. Most of what you have been told is wrong. You don't need a half cut (the 260RS is built from an RS4T off the assembly line) just need (obviously) to cut a hole for the gearshift and weld the handbrake bracket on ...the GTR box will fit with a little jiggling - all the information is in the above links - its quite straightforward and can be done in a day or weekend if you have all the bits lined up. Best done with some mates - i have heard of some workshops charging ridiculous amounts of money to do it.

BTW if you are fitting an RB26 budget for a decent clutch and a brake and suspension upgrade so you can keep it on the road!

(Oh and one of my 300km/hr speedo kits!)

yer i have read the top form post befor.

i should also let u know i have a s1 rs4 if that will make things a little different or not?

i was planning on getting a s2 pedal box , clutch master cylinder and line.

would i still need the gtr brake booster? and need to recess the master back? being that i am also fitting a 26

What do you mean by a S1 RS4 - do you mean no turbo? If so you will have even weaker brakes but all the conversion stuff will be the same.

I used an R34 clutch pedal I think but without the power booster so no recessing.

Because of the Greddy copy FF plenum I had to use a stock R33 clutch master as the 33GTR or 34 one (I can't remember) was too long. That may or may not be the case with the RB26DETT plenum.

Your brake booster will be fine (check that you have a BM50 brake m/c). I used the stock set up when I changed to GTT brakes (good idea for you) but left the booster but changed the brake m/c to an R34GTR one (BM57) when I fitted the D2s

the box tunnel is different to the auto. so man box wont fit straight in..

Tunnel is the same, fits easily.

hand brake as well

Easy to get around, you need a hand brake mount out of a manual skyline and spot weld/rivet it onto your tunnel....

s2 man pedal box is different to s1 and wont just bolt in

You need R34 clutch master cylinder and pedal, it bolts right up ;-). take the boot of your auto brake pedal and grind it down and fit a r33 brake boot over when your done. Dont bother changing the brake pedal its a MASSIVE PAIN IN THE ASS

some thing to do with the awd censer not fitting right

Correct, depends which console you use but you'll need to move it slightly... its easy just put it out of the way

cred in perth was telling me i need a half cut to get body parts off to fit it all

i not want it to be doggy done but done good and right

Well if you dont want it done dodgy i wouldnt be taking it to CRED thats for sure!

I did mine myself on the shed floor on jackstands... Id never changed a clutch before and I didnt find it that hard, had minimal experience too as I was only 20 but I've always loved tinkering with stuff.

Heres a thread I made ; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/331327-my-manual-conversion-findings/page__hl__manual+conversion

feel free to ask for any help, best bet is to PM as ill get an email cos I dont frequent SAU that much anymore.....

haha yer its a rs4v 25det at the moment.

changing to 33gtst brakes later on till i find some 33 or 34 gtr.

so ur saying that the s2 stagea clutch pedal and master cylinder are no good to me? and would be better of chasing down a r34gtt?

shame i just missed out on a cheap 32gts4 box.

What do you mean by a S1 RS4 - do you mean no turbo? If so you will have even weaker brakes but all the conversion stuff will be the same.

I used an R34 clutch pedal I think but without the power booster so no recessing.

Because of the Greddy copy FF plenum I had to use a stock R33 clutch master as the 33GTR or 34 one (I can't remember) was too long. That may or may not be the case with the RB26DETT plenum.

Your brake booster will be fine (check that you have a BM50 brake m/c). I used the stock set up when I changed to GTT brakes (good idea for you) but left the booster but changed the brake m/c to an R34GTR one (BM57) when I fitted the D2s

S1 = Series 1.

digiads_car_ads_96876_1.jpg

Rather than a Series Two:

2000_Nissan_Stagea_OTEKKU260RS.jpg

haha yer i know what s1 is mine is the first pic.

i not say that some 1 said that a s2 clutch pedal is no good no 1 say or not if it will fit easy.

was told to get a 34 gtt pedal and master cylinder. i was asking about the s2 as i have 1 lined up to buy and not want to get the wrong 1 that's all

I would assume that the S2 clutch pedal would fit perfectly. The reason everyone says R34 pedal is because Stagea clutch pedals S1 or S2 (I would expect they would be exactly the same ) are very rare and therefore not an easy option for most people.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
    • Great work Duncan, any events local you will give it a test once all done? 
×
×
  • Create New...