Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so i want to know if there is any difference between the Nissan skyline GTR r34 and the R34 gt-t/gt in the raw body size, meaning like if i stripped both of them apart would there be any difference in the size's of the body, or did nissan use the same chassis and just put genuine GTR parts into one chassis please help me thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391378-some-one-please-help-me-urgent/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have searched high and low through the whole internet trying to find answers on this, but i still cannot find any answers that i am looking for, some please give me some confirmation on this, thank you

The chassis rails sit in the same position, but the rear and front guards are pumped to fit wider wheels. While the front guards are easily changed over, the rear means that is very difficult to match the track of a GT-R. There are blister kits available but involve making very permanent mods (damage) to a gt-t chassis.

So Would it be possible to strip the whole GT-t and rewire it and fit it with ALL genuine GTR parts onto the gt-t as if it was a GTR ?

yes IF you had a GTS4 in the same chassis. if you are thinking of buying (or have) a GTR34 and dropping all of it into a GTT then the front drive system will hang you. the chassis rails ARE DIFFERENT in the front of the car. there are subtle tweaks in the floor as well.

in my case I have GTR electricals in a GTS4 R32 chassis and IF I wanted to do a FULL swap it would be the entire front end swap AND new inner/outer rear guards as well. swapping the outer panels wont work.

what EXACTLY are you trying to do?

Ok ok I have A Gt-t r34, and i want to strip it completely of EVERYTHING and put all genuine GTR parts into it except for the drive train, leave that at rwd, but everything else make it as GTR as possible

Ok ok I have A Gt-t r34, and i want to strip it completely of EVERYTHING and put all genuine GTR parts into it except for the drive train, leave that at rwd, but everything else make it as GTR as possible

Mate, here's my last piece of advice.

I suggest you start collecting GTR body parts now before you do the conversion. Yes, everything can be translated across with fabrication and custom body work.

Get the shell of a GTR and then transfer it across and you will notice the difference which will require custom work.

It will be a BIG project, so the question is why don't you just save up a bit longer and buy a GTR?

Mate, here's my last piece of advice.

I suggest you start collecting GTR body parts now before you do the conversion. Yes, everything can be translated across with fabrication and custom body work.

Get the shell of a GTR and then transfer it across and you will notice the difference which will require custom work.

It will be a BIG project, so the question is why don't you just save up a bit longer and buy a GTR?

beat me to it.

to put this into perspective - the rear guards are well over $1k each just to get the track/look right.

save your money and buy a GTR. easier. if you are looking for hectic rear skids buy a commodore :P the GTR is 4wd for a reason.

Bro, you're the first person in the whole wide world that prefers a RWD over a AWD but yet want his car to look like A GTR.

Do you want to go all-out or just want GTR bodykit items? Check this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErMIsPSzxlc

Mate, with $$$ anything is possible.

i wanted to make it look ( exterior) exactly like a GTR in the video i could easly tell that wasnt a true GTR, the front bumper is different, and also, the drivetrain, would it be possible to swap the GT-t one and putting it into a GTR ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...