Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Black BLACK!

Haha. Gtr -> rwd, easy

Gtt-> gtr, so not worth the hassle.

And why do you personally not like awd? Or did you drive a evo and think "nah awd is not for me".

Gtr is a different type of awd. Just saying.

mate, dont get too worked up about the whole thing

without being too harsh on the OP, lets be 100% honest with our selves here, we ALL know that this guy IS NOT going too spend the money on converting his gt-t into a gtr look-a-like. Nor is he going to buy a r34 gtr, just to turn it rwd.

this is an internet based forum where ALOT of people say things they really dont mean.

Now i could be completely wrong, and OP has thousands and thousands of dollars spare to spend on modifying a 12 year old gt-t in such an extreme way, for no real apparent gain, then good luck.

GTR to rwd is easy enough, drop front driveshafts, hack front diff off sump, remove attessa computers etc and chuck in an RB25 box. But I don't see the point.

Have you driven an R and then come to the decision that you don't like the AWD or have you just gone, "Yep the GTT is rwd I like it" and not done any research into how the R actually handles.

I haven't driven a 34R but I have driven a 33R and whilst the 4wd and rwd feel completely different it is a great handling package. Feels a bit heavier in the front but it feels a lot more balanced and smooth. If you want your GT-T to run an rb26 then do that and save the coin on everything else. otherwise drive an R if you haven't already and see if you really do dislike the AWD as much as you think you do.

Another thing to consider, as well as the guards being pumped out and the suspension being mostly the same you will have to swap rear hubs from loop type suspension to fork type and LCA's etc are different to provide you with the added 20mm rear track. Front track however is the same.

soooooooooo yes, no, i need a black or white answer

I like this guy.

With such a great title, I was expecting a thread subtitle along the lines of "just ran over a homeless guy - should I call the cops?" or "I just caught my sister in bed with my mom"...very disappointed...

Ok great stuff here, and also, the money situation isnt a concern, also if i was to stick to the GT-t and i got all original GTR body kit, side skirts bonnet rear left and right quarter pannels front and rear bumper the lot, would it be a hassle to fit onto the gt-t, thank you for your patience people, i greatly appreciate it

Ok great stuff here, and also, the money situation isnt a concern, also if i was to stick to the GT-t and i got all original GTR body kit, side skirts bonnet rear left and right quarter pannels front and rear bumper the lot, would it be a hassle to fit onto the gt-t, thank you for your patience people, i greatly appreciate it

I smell a troll..

I answered the question a few posts back with reference to a R32. same idea.

Ok great stuff here, and also, the money situation isnt a concern, also if i was to stick to the GT-t and i got all original GTR body kit, side skirts bonnet rear left and right quarter pannels front and rear bumper the lot, would it be a hassle to fit onto the gt-t, thank you for your patience people, i greatly appreciate it

also if money is not a concern -buy a R35. that will pull the chicks and get you thrown in jail at the same time.

if you were doing a resto like I am then I could POSSIBLY see your point. at the moment I see a kid and dreams.

put up or shut up :)

also if money is not a concern -buy a R35. that will pull the chicks and get you thrown in jail at the same time.

if you were doing a resto like I am then I could POSSIBLY see your point. at the moment I see a kid and dreams.

put up or shut up :)

THIS

/Thread.

Yes, the AWD system can be disabled. I wouldn't waste the time, effort and money doing such a costly conversion.

>Buy R34 GTR

>Disable the AWD system

>??????

>Profit!

Edited by JDM34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...