Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just want to clarify that my coupe has D2S D2R Xenon HID 8000K bulbs already, and what ever the factory high beams are. do i need any other bulbs to make this work?

Nope, you should be all good.

manc01 - I am quite you are NOT going to find any D2S HIDs in stock at any store in Adelaide (which is why I told you about buying them on Ebay on Monday).

And as per my PM, any H4 will do the job - you just need to decide on what quality you want. but be prepared ot be raped if you buy retail vs buying online.

  • Replies 478
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nope, you should be all good.

manc01 - I am quite you are NOT going to find any D2S HIDs in stock at any store in Adelaide (which is why I told you about buying them on Ebay on Monday).

And as per my PM, any H4 will do the job - you just need to decide on what quality you want. but be prepared ot be raped if you buy retail vs buying online.

D2S is different to DSR... D2S is projector, D2R is reflector, D2C is the only one that can be used for both

Nissan charges $240+GST EACH Bulb so buy from that ebay link i posted, the guy is so helpful if you want to know "what Phillips do i buy"

D2S 85122CX

D2S 85122CM

D2S 85122

D2S 85122+

D2S 85122WX

Read between the lines : "D2S is projector, D2R is reflector" - you need to figure out whether your glones are S or R. If they are S then that is what you want, if they are R they will still work, but the pattern will not be optimal for the new projector style lens.

Got mine also. They come in a very big box! I have only opened one but it looks like is has a bulb in the high beam???

Yes its a H1 bulb. you can get the 100% more vision one from philips if your not happy with that one.. only $43 from ebay.

YAY! Keith and I got ours today! Super rapped to fob off my RHS headlight! Thanks to everyone's input and patience and to Keith for organising it on my behalf! :)

Has someone installed them yet? I wonder what to do with the small box attached to the wires, tape it to the headlights when I install it? I know how to install the headlights, but I might need some advice assistance with the HID ballast and harness.

471746_10150848090110993_548320992_12153282_1956867438_o.jpg

Id like to note thats just on parks and my flash make it look like my light is on. These were a direct plug and play for me, will put a hid kit on it eventually but for now the halogens are fine.

Anyone bought these? I think it's a just a simple halo ring add-on, looks good

http://www.ebay.com....=item53d9057c56

There is an extensive thread about these somewhere in the V35 section. Bit of a PITA job to fit including baking your lights to break the seals and open them, much stuffing around to fit the halos (including having to silicone them in = dodgy imho) and horror stories about the place on the net of people baking their lights too long and ruining them, not baking them long enough and damaging the seals when opening them, and the halos falling out of place or not being siliconed in perfectly straight and looking like shite. Not something I am game to do TBH - hence why I bought the aftermarket lights with all of the guesswork taken out. Plus it is fully/easily reversible to switch the lights back if you want later on.

Are you free Saturday morning/lunchtime to help/watch/drink while we fit the headlights to 5 x V35s Matt? Munro might pop around in his R35GTR for a look/help/drink too. It is getting some new toys fitted as we speak and will be making mid-400 awkws by the weekend :)

hey Damian, are your low beam bulbs D2S or D2R?

I haven't got mine fittet yet but my V35 is a series 1 with D2R bulbs and I'm a bit concern if they would fit ok in the projector lens of the new headlights.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...