Jump to content
SAU Community

Aftermarket & Stock Parts For Sale, Will Take Low Baller Offers


Recommended Posts

Hey Lads, cleaned out the shed on the weekend and decided I need to unload a few things. I just want to get rid of them so I will take low baller offers but also, don't just be a khunt about it :D

OEM Rb25det Radiator - $50 (make a low baller offer)

6889248365_30cf940d27_z.jpg

OEM series II RB25det ECU - $80 (make a low baller offer) - PENDING SALE

6889289161_59e3166a11_z.jpg

HKS SSQV BOV with spare purple fin and flange to bolt straight onto an RB25det - $80 (make a low baller offer)

6889280029_e6ae950f56_z.jpg

OEM RB25det BOV - $20 (make a low baller offer)

6889285759_0290bd5bf8_z.jpg

Greddy Air diversion panel, will fit S1 and S2 R33 - $40 (make a low baller offer)

6889259469_c9ee18fbea_z.jpg

HKS Super Power filter - $30 (make a low baller offer)

6889277269_7dcb543242_z.jpg

BRAND NEW Cusco offset numberplate mount for R33 GT-R but will pretty much fit anything - $25 (make a low baller offer)

6889283087_482c9f8eba_z.jpg

Turbosmart boost controller T - $20 (make a low baller offer)

6889271167_900c55e60e_z.jpg

2 x OEM Series II RB25det AFM's - $10 each

6889274133_7b8ea4a395_z.jpg

OEM RB25det injectors - $20 (make a low baller offer)

6889268319_ce0fba0bbe_z.jpg

OEM RB25det side mount intercooler - $50 (make a low baller offer)

6889265547_5c637086ac_z.jpg

Kicker Amp - $50 (make a low baller offer)

6889256157_4bf938e202_z.jpg

OEM R33 rear camber arms - $10 (that's pretty low baller anyway)

6889262429_bb00f4d723_z.jpg

Hit me up in this thread or PM me if there is anything you're after!

Edited by Braddd

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...