Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't know if I should buy a new sensor or just forget about it. Waste of 230. I emailed the people I bought it from, they don't replace them. Bullshit, the f**king thing failed prematurely.

I'll try the brake cleaner and see what happens. Shit thing is it's reading richer than it should. I really doubt my tune is thrown out.

Edited by SargeRX8

Did you buy it from the guy on eBay?

And a replacement sensor shouldn't be that much? 80 bucks or so. Don't replace it yet though, rule out everything else first. After a quick search I've found people with similar problems to us who turned out to have a poor connection somewhere in the wiring.

I suggest testing the sensor first. If it does what it should then the sensor's not stuffed, it will be a problem somewhere else.

Edited by Hanaldo

i bought my innovate off eBay for $220 more than a year ago, hasn't missed a beat. has needed one new sensor in that time, fair call, i have a rich tune -> shorter sensor life.

I don't know about the UEGO but my LC-1 has a calibration function, for every new changed sensor its gotta calibrate the heater circuit, and calibrate to free air.

See if the UEGO has some sort of function? I'd be surprised if it didn't! I could be wrong though...

p.s. martin, you could still have 12s and even 11s at cruise sometimes and could still return good economy. were talking maybe 10% difference in duty cycle between say 12s and 14s. its things like on boost driving that kill your economy - if you have a read-out, look at your injector pulse widths when on boost. At idle I get 2.00 mS, cruising at 100kms in 5th gear = 4-6.00 mS, then on boost it ramps up to 15-17, gives you an idea how much fuel is getting smashed in on boost!!

accel. enrichment (when you stab the throttle, the ecu injects extra fuel for a few mS.) also makes a massive difference, I've had this turned up on my car fairly high (when i stabbed le throttle, i would see low 10s even 9s sometimes) and got shocking economy! Turned it down and saw a massive difference. from like 14-15 down to 11.5l/100km :)

i bought my innovate off eBay for $220 more than a year ago, hasn't missed a beat. has needed one new sensor in that time, fair call, i have a rich tune -> shorter sensor life.

I don't know about the UEGO but my LC-1 has a calibration function, for every new changed sensor its gotta calibrate the heater circuit, and calibrate to free air.

See if the UEGO has some sort of function? I'd be surprised if it didn't! I could be wrong though...

p.s. martin, you could still have 12s and even 11s at cruise sometimes and could still return good economy. were talking maybe 10% difference in duty cycle between say 12s and 14s. its things like on boost driving that kill your economy - if you have a read-out, look at your injector pulse widths when on boost. At idle I get 2.00 mS, cruising at 100kms in 5th gear = 4-6.00 mS, then on boost it ramps up to 15-17, gives you an idea how much fuel is getting smashed in on boost!!

accel. enrichment (when you stab the throttle, the ecu injects extra fuel for a few mS.) also makes a massive difference, I've had this turned up on my car fairly high (when i stabbed le throttle, i would see low 10s even 9s sometimes) and got shocking economy! Turned it down and saw a massive difference. from like 14-15 down to 11.5l/100km :)

They dont Calibrate, they have a resistor inbuilt or something like that and never require calibration. All sensors are calibrated before being sold and never require calibration

Like I said. Mine has been fine for 6 Months with no calibration. Last time I used an innovate it was free air calibrated before put in the dump pipe, then about hald an hour into tuning started reading 22:1 or smomthing rediculous like that

not saying innovates are bad, just saying I've had good experience with my AEM compared to the innovate

i bought my innovate off eBay for $220 more than a year ago, hasn't missed a beat. has needed one new sensor in that time, fair call, i have a rich tune -> shorter sensor life.

I don't know about the UEGO but my LC-1 has a calibration function, for every new changed sensor its gotta calibrate the heater circuit, and calibrate to free air.

See if the UEGO has some sort of function? I'd be surprised if it didn't! I could be wrong though...

p.s. martin, you could still have 12s and even 11s at cruise sometimes and could still return good economy. were talking maybe 10% difference in duty cycle between say 12s and 14s. its things like on boost driving that kill your economy - if you have a read-out, look at your injector pulse widths when on boost. At idle I get 2.00 mS, cruising at 100kms in 5th gear = 4-6.00 mS, then on boost it ramps up to 15-17, gives you an idea how much fuel is getting smashed in on boost!!

accel. enrichment (when you stab the throttle, the ecu injects extra fuel for a few mS.) also makes a massive difference, I've had this turned up on my car fairly high (when i stabbed le throttle, i would see low 10s even 9s sometimes) and got shocking economy! Turned it down and saw a massive difference. from like 14-15 down to 11.5l/100km :)

Yeh the AEM's are self-calibrating man, as 89CAL said.

My cruise AFR's are usually between 15.5-17.5 depending on load, there's still no way I'd be getting the same fuel economy on 12's as I would on 17's. I don't boost a lot on the street, second gear and I'm breaking every speed limit in my area, not too mention cops can probably hear me in Kalgoorlie lol. My accel. enrichment isn't too bad either, goes from 16's/17's to about 13.5/14's at the most. I also still have a lean pop on idle despite the wideband reading anywhere between 10-15, usually it is 17.5 to not even registering. There's no carbon build up on my rear bumper, no backfiring unless I ramp it up and then back off quickly, and even then it's quite rare. Nothing changed at all when the gauge started reading differently, surely if my car is actually running at above 14 at all times then it would drive differently?

I just, got some heat through the o2 sensor. Didn't affect the reading. I checked the wiring and other shit and it looks fine. Didn't affect reading. I set the car on fire, didn't affect reading. I can't justify another $80 for another sensor. I don't try to tune the car anymore anyway so I guess ill live with it for now until I rip the gauge out and throw it at someone in road rage.

My fuel economy is absolutely disgusting if I let me turbo do some work. With nice average skyline driving and granny driving when ever I'm feeling lazy, I can get about 400km to the tank. I can get anywhere from 200 - 250 giving it a hard time.

Edited by SargeRX8

Is it possible that something has actually happened and your AFR's are off? If you can try and borrow someone else's wideband and see if it reads different. using both at once doing.g a direct comparison would be best. tuning shop might even let you do it for nothing

Just in case there is actually an issue with the tune/car not the sensor

Is it possible that something has actually happened and your AFR's are off? If you can try and borrow someone else's wideband and see if it reads different. using both at once doing.g a direct comparison would be best. tuning shop might even let you do it for nothing

Just in case there is actually an issue with the tune/car not the sensor

It could be, I'd have to get it on a dyno and I doubt anyone will do it free and I can't justify paying 90 for dyno time then finding out the sensor is f**ked and paying another 80 to replace it. Either way it's going to cost money. Sometimes I think my head unit is a f**king ATM for the car.

When I drive on the street it doesn't make much difference to my fuel economy whether I give it some stick or drive it like a granny. I just don't spend enough time on boost on the street to actually use any fuel. On the track I get about 180-200kms to a tank though :P

Hmm I don't think there is anything wrong with the sensor... I was watching my PFC hand controller and the timing on warm idle is abit bouncy, 15 - 17. It used to sit perfect on 15. Also the vacuum on idle has changed, the engine isn't sucking in as much as it was, I'm going to suspect there is a leak somewhere. Usually my boost controller(profec b spec2) reads -94 on warm idle. Now its reading around -88.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...