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Hi,I have changed front LCA of my S15 to a GTST33 LCA, still getting -3 degree negative front camber.looking at extending the outer part cut and shut R33 LCA ( between the caster rod holes and the sway bar upright hole and the outer ball joint by 25mm. There are lots of Adjustable LCA ( Ikeya, driftwork etc) Can not find any info from Forums if these direct bolt on can give me -5 degree front camber. Both of my outer half of my front tyres were scalloped badly ( crying out for more - camber)

Can any suspension experts give me some ideas?

My other GTR33 track car is not ready yet. I have already relocated outward the 4 bolt holes by max 19mm for the stock LCA to move outward. Racepace modified front upper arm ( to get more caster) and 20mm alloy spacers ( aka Ikeya) to set up and correct the RCA. As it stand on the floor, I don't see much - camber at all.Should I just buy the Ikeya LCA with the caster rod to get the -5 degree?

Thanks for reading

Alex

I have Cusco Castor and front upper Camber arms on my S1 Stagea - they are the same parts as the R33GTR. I have 7deg castor and just on 3 deg neg camber front and rear. It doesn't sound much but it means the top of the wheels are leaning in about 25mm from the vertical and the car is cornering really well at the moment. I haven't tried it with my slicks yet but will be doing so on the 25th. i presume if you get an adjustable lower arm you will be able to get another few degrees if you want.

I have Cusco Castor and front upper Camber arms on my S1 Stagea - they are the same parts as the R33GTR. I have 7deg castor and just on 3 deg neg camber front and rear. It doesn't sound much but it means the top of the wheels are leaning in about 25mm from the vertical and the car is cornering really well at the moment. I haven't tried it with my slicks yet but will be doing so on the 25th. i presume if you get an adjustable lower arm you will be able to get another few degrees if you want.

Thanks mate

Once I sort out the S15, I will certainly get the front of the GTR33 sorted out to get the -5 degrees camber for circuit time attack/club sprints

I'll tell you right now that your cars do not want 5deg of negative camber.

Your assuming that the scalloping on the outer edges is from a lack of camber....

What type of tire?

Have you actually measured carcas temps?

Scrub radius, toe, shock dampening, wheel bearings etc is where you should be starting,

The fact you've messed around with the geometry by fitting other control arms etc won't be helping the issue.

Lack of neg camber will increase outside wear but not directly cause scalloping (lack of neg camber, poor scrub radius or stuffed shocks obviously will)

I'll tell you right now that your cars do not want 5deg of negative camber.

Your assuming that the scalloping on the outer edges is from a lack of camber....

What type of tire?

Have you actually measured carcas temps?

Scrub radius, toe, shock dampening, wheel bearings etc is

where you should be starting,

The fact you've messed around with the geometry by fitting other control arms etc won't be helping the issue.

Lack of neg camber will increase outside wear but not

directly cause scalloping (lack of neg camber, poor scrub radius or stuffed shocks obviously will)

Some of the fastest GTR's and S chassis cars I build and maintain run as little as 2.75 deg on occasions. 3-3.5 is typical. 4.0 is the most we usually run if it's using slicks and carry enough corner speed to warrant the camber.

Extending the 33 LCA 25mm with adj arms will give you easy 5. Mine lca are 25mm longer and I had -6 degrees camber with about 30mm adjusment left on the arms to get even more camber.

Edited by boostn0199

Thanks Brad for taking your time to respond.

I have been using Kumho V70A on the S15 and found that not only the outer half of front tyres scolloping on the thread shoulders, it also noticeably wore out much more than the inside half. Tien coilovers seems to be working fine, camber top set to maximum inwards. caster 6 degrees. understeer is acceptable now and the tyres screamed at fast corners.Took the car back to Tyre power Essendon ( they have reset and corrected alignment before I took it to Phillip Island for testing) and they suggested more camber. I will try to get -5 and see how it goes and set it back to -4 if it doesn't feel right. Rear is -1.5

At present 17x9+20 V70A all four 255/40/17. have a set of LMGT4 17x9.5 +12 with 255 RE55 to try out later.

My lap time is coming down, and aiming for 1:18 Sandown 1:47 Phillip Island 1:45 E/C .Need the handling to get there.

I spoke to you a while ago regarding dry sump for RB and opt for Accu sump for the GTR33.hope the GTR will will ready for track test in the near future.Looked at your other tread, interested in the Willwood and particularly the Ohlin shocks.but I am no suspension engineer nor fabricator to make it fit onto GTR33.I will ring you to discuss the possibility for you to make it a bolt on set.ATM GTR33 has a set of Bilstien on. Got your mobile number hope is the current one

Thanks for your advise,will certainly follow through.

cheers

Alex 0433878905

But I would also agree as above you wouldnt really want that much camber -3.5 should be the most you need.

Thanks Manuel,

I nearly bought John Kennedy's old mid night purple GTR33 with Ikeya LCA -5 degrees front camber 1:16.00 Sandown and 1:43 P/I. I am not that keen to go that aggresive until I was told the S15 needs more - camber. can alway set it back to -3.5 or -4 if need to be.Would the driftwork adjustable LCA ( red in colour $400 a pair) do the job? When you adjust them outward how does it affect the two bolts position for the caster rod and the sway bar vertical link?

cheers

The driftworks adj lca like any othet adj type the downside is when you add say 20mm the castor and sway bar holes are also moved forward so if you want to retain stock position for the holes cut and shut is your option or you could redrill the holes in the driftworks lca but be adding weakness with a new set of holes.

I wouldn't be listening to a tirepower shop about wheel alignment suggestions.

If your in vic there is plenty of decent places around who specialize in race setup. Spend the money and utilize their help.

I wouldn't be listening to a tirepower shop about wheel alignment suggestions.

If your in vic there is plenty of decent places around who specialize in race setup. Spend the money and utilize their help.

The Essendon Tyre power is no ordinary tyre power shop, They are the distributor for Kumho race tyres. Ricky race a WRX, Russell/Datsun1600 and Paul/something quick..

Been to Chris/ Centreline suspension ( Ohlin dealer, race a very quick tube Chassis RX7) and Trackside suspension too.

I use the wheel alignment place across the road for normal street cars and travel the distance to people who are experienced with race cars.

Will try -3.5/-4/-4.5/-5 and get some fit back on different setting both on the S15 and GTR33

John Kennedy's old car GTR33 ( Ikeya -5, racepace 2.6 and Harrop brakes) 1:16 Sandown,1:43 P/island. Looks a bit aggressive for me, but now I would like to try different settings and see which one suit the car and me

I will get one of those infra red temp sensor gun asap before next track day, Driver Dynamic Sandown 17/18 March( AGP weekend) Good for testing and fun, untimed,$300 per driver any car

Have a great honeymoon

cheers

Forget the infrared junk it will only tell you the surface temperature which will cool down too quick to measure properly... you need a tyre temp probe.

Thanks,got the same advice from other people as well, will get the probe. may use the infra red junk to check pads and rotor temp. will they be ok for that?

Thanks,got the same advice from other people as well, will get the probe. may use the infra red junk to check pads and rotor temp. will they be ok for that?

No. The instructions say they only properly work on black surfaces - so shiney rotors wont work.

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