Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://news.drive.co...122566#comments

To-day's update of a 8/7/11 Article suggests that Nissan has a budget to reproduce Datsuns again.

Besides the Chinese market, I would suggest that Nissan bring back some low budget fun into motoring with a Datsun to compete against 'Toymota'

In fact I've posted such a comment for vetting, as some of you might...

So far in this morning's poll, 66% support Datsun's re-emergence.

My Q here on SAU is...

What would you like to see in a Datsun engine bay + suspension and brakes etc?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393753-d-a-t-s-u-n/
Share on other sites

I think I would soil the front of my pants if they revived Datsun.

Imagine a modern day 1600. I'm getting goose bumps just thinking about it.

I want small (<1000kg) rwd 4 door, boxy shape and a banshee revving, quad throttle bodied, all alloy 1.6L 4 cylinder.

16 inch wheels, independent suspension at each corner, old school trailing arm out back with some geometry correction as is generally applied to 1600s now, very basic interior. Strip away as many electronics as legally possible, only two airbags.

280ishmm brakes with twin piston callipers up front and smaller single pistons out back.

R180 LSD diff, big sway bars.

Fuel tank underslung, a can of tyre goo instead of a spare and a boot mounted battery.

Chrome bumper bars, door handles and c-pillar vents. A Venetian blind in the back window.

Please Datsun, do it for me. Without doubt I would buy one on pre-order. A new 1600 is a dream come true for me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393753-d-a-t-s-u-n/#findComment-6261782
Share on other sites

Not sure if they could get away with the weight savings needed and still comply with modern safety requirements, without going the super expensive materials route.

Most requirements are simple sensors and an ECU capable of doing what it has to. There are no requirements for a car to have super dooper intrusion protection, 20 airbars and all that crap. The only mandatory requirement is ESC.

A 5 door Hyundai Getz weighs barely over a ton, so it's not hard to keep kerb weight down cheaply. The original 1600 (with iron blocked L16 and full sized spare) was 900kgs, so add 100kg worth of modern shit to it if you must. That should be more than enough to appease the safetycrats.

GIMMIE!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393753-d-a-t-s-u-n/#findComment-6261934
Share on other sites

I think I would soil the front of my pants if they revived Datsun.

Imagine a modern day 1600. I'm getting goose bumps just thinking about it.

I want small (<1000kg) rwd 4 door, boxy shape and a banshee revving, quad throttle bodied, all alloy 1.6L 4 cylinder.

16 inch wheels, independent suspension at each corner, old school trailing arm out back with some geometry correction as is generally applied to 1600s now, very basic interior. Strip away as many electronics as legally possible, only two airbags.

280ishmm brakes with twin piston callipers up front and smaller single pistons out back.

R180 LSD diff, big sway bars.

Fuel tank underslung, a can of tyre goo instead of a spare and a boot mounted battery.

Chrome bumper bars, door handles and c-pillar vents. A Venetian blind in the back window.

Please Datsun, do it for me. Without doubt I would buy one on pre-order. A new 1600 is a dream come true for me.

Amen.

My dream version would be something like (obviously using modern bits and to keep it cheap):

- Small light weight sedan, coupe, ute, wagon - say roughly the dimentions of a modern Yaris sedan

- RWD

- 1.6L to 2L alloy engine with direct injection, with an option for a low boost turbo setup.

- 6 speed manual from an S15 (light weight tranny)

- 5 speed auto option with tiptronic from 350z (still keeping it light weight)

- Minimal sound insulation (keep it light and cheap), but with option for people that want it.

- All alloy components where possible and plastic to reduce weight and cost

- Front and side airbags (whatever the minimum to meet regs.)

- VDC, TCS and ABS etc... (whatever the minimum to meet regs.)

- Brakes from R34 non-turbo (aka Maxima/300zx brakes)

- R200 LSD

- Basic interior with A/C

- Manual window winders, with an option for electirc windows if people so desire

- Premium sounding 2 speaker audio setup, with Single DIN AM/FM, aux in, DAB+ and USB - no need for CD, extra speakers or subs.

- No other un-needed electrics.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393753-d-a-t-s-u-n/#findComment-6263609
Share on other sites

No one in their right mind would "expect" the car I've described, or anything similar, but it's fun to dream.

You've only got to click the link in Terry's opening post to know what to expect; a rebadged POS front drive budget mobile.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393753-d-a-t-s-u-n/#findComment-6264446
Share on other sites

No one in their right mind would "expect" the car I've described, or anything similar, but it's fun to dream.

You've only got to click the link in Terry's opening post to know what to expect; a rebadged POS front drive budget mobile.

Yeh - true. Wishes will remain wishes...

At the same time the S chassis (S15) would be good to bring back especially since all the R&D has been done. Maybe find ways to make it cheaper/lighter and put a different shell, engine and safety features to suit. Profit!

They jam enough equipment into your typical Toyota Yaris/Mazda 2/Nissan Micra

I'd rather a pov spec RWD car anytime :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393753-d-a-t-s-u-n/#findComment-6265037
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...