Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought a set of exhaust system including dump pipe and cat for my R34 GTT. It should be a direct replacement to the factory ones without any modification. Called up a few mechanics and mufflers around the area and got an average quote of $250-$300. I've been told it requires at least 3 hours to fit them on!! Is this reasonable? I looked up online and people saying it should take under 1 hour to replace the whole thing... I got a feeling all the mechanics and mufflers are just try to rip you off...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394083-cost-to-fit-exhaust-system/
Share on other sites

That's what I thought too. One end of the dump pipe is connected to cat already and the other end just need 5 bolts. Every mechanic I called tells me how hard it is to connect it to the turbo but isn't it as simple as just tighten the 5 bolts? I would have given it a crack myself if I got all the tools :-(

Exhaust bolts are a prick to undo especially off the turbo. You will also want to buy new rubbers because it easier to cut the old ones to revove it. If you feel like you can do it go ahead but make sure you have a good jack and stands as you will be wobbling the car around while fitting. Get some high temp gasket goo to be sure you don't end up with exhaust leaks

i know the feeling... i wenrt and saw my local exhaust guy yesterday about building something custom.......and he flat out told me he doesnt have the time or capable hands to make anything nice like he used to :(

made me a sad panda, hes done some seriously awesome work for my family and our cars over the years

Thanks guys. I just took the car to a mechanic around the area that I didn't call in the morning and he looked at the pipes quoted me $80-$160 for the job which is equivalent to 1-2 hours work which I think at least is reasonable base on your help. He doesn't want me to stay there to watch him and ask me to pick up later. I think he probably just want to take "as long as he wants" and charge me more later... somehow I feel very hard to trust any mechanics.... I will let you know how much in the end.

The hardest part of doing the dump is getting the bolts out in one piece. there very prone to snapping. i have CAT high tensile bolts and anti-sieze on mine so it makes it easy as when i want to take the dump off now

But that's probably why they were saying the dump pipe was hard. if you snap a bolt in there, there's not alot of room to get it out

Your 100% right , mechanics can be full of it, i have gone must be atleast 5 workshops for different jobs and all really let me down,

i just had a dump made up, took them 4 weeks to do it, they didnt event weld in the 02 sensor for me, i drove it away and it was banging and vibrating on the engine, then i took a look under and the whole exhaust is hanging down, no cat bracket on it, hanging off the turbo housing, can you believe that????? and to make it even worse this was done by a respected mechanic/fabricator on here which pisses me off everyday that i think bout it, $1000 spent and im very very dissapointed.:rant: no way im going back to wait what... another 4weeks F#%k off!!

be very very careful who is working on the car and make it clear what you want done and what you expect, thats my lesson learnt.

seems to be alot of cowboys doing work and charging too much.. :mad:

make sure you check what they have done and that its not all hanging low with a shit paper gasket on the dump cause as i learnt , thats not the right gasket and a previous mechanic actually gave that to me to put on along with there shit china dump.

venting... ok all good now.. :thumbsup:

There should be a naming and shaming thread on here :thumbsup:

OK the guy charged me $140 including new bolts and nuts. I still think I got over charged by a little. He actually left the car on jack so I could inspect the work. It seems very straight forward to me. All hangers and connectors fit perfectly to the car there's nothing special you need to do you bolt them on. The pipe that coming out of turbo's waste gate (or engine?) that connects to the front of the dump pipe was not hard to reach at all... especially if you could stand under the car! This is definitely a job around $100 don't get fooled by those untrustworthy mechanics they will just BS their way out and hoping that they could catch a fish...

OK the guy charged me $140 including new bolts and nuts. I still think I got over charged by a little. He actually left the car on jack so I could inspect the work. It seems very straight forward to me. All hangers and connectors fit perfectly to the car there's nothing special you need to do you bolt them on. The pipe that coming out of turbo's waste gate (or engine?) that connects to the front of the dump pipe was not hard to reach at all... especially if you could stand under the car! This is definitely a job around $100 don't get fooled by those untrustworthy mechanics they will just BS their way out and hoping that they could catch a fish...

spot on, they can be like predators waiting for young guys with too much money to throw around, maybe thats the typical stereotype i dont know.

Good to see you got a good job done for a reasonable price, :thumbsup:

@SliverS2 I totally agree. We should have threads here list those "reputable" mechanics that does not try to rob your hard earned money... and those mechanics that try to charge you 3 times of what the job should really cost... Maybe a list for a reasonable price you should expect for different mechanic jobs... :rolleyes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...