Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get underneath and twist the tie rods/rack ends; I bet there's a clunk. I just had an alignment on mine, and this has disturbed the inner rack ends; which have developed a knock.

They appear to be the same as V35 and 350z rack ends from my search of common part numbers. Can anyone confirm?

V35/350Z ball joints are the same. I've just had mine fitted and the car feels amazing.

eBay is the place to get them. Nissan will only sell the entire setup, at $800/side.

I also checked Ebay but with no luck finding them today

You need to get a computer. It'll make things much easier compared to trying to use your phone. Not trying to be an asshole, just trying to help!

Pretty sure this is where I got mine from, but with the exchange rate they're cheaper now: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-FRONT-LOWER-BALL-JOINT-NISSAN-350Z-03-09-/250697175942?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5eb75386#ht_863wt_891

You need to get a computer. It'll make things much easier compared to trying to use your phone. Not trying to be an asshole, just trying to help!

Pretty sure this is where I got mine from, but with the exchange rate they're cheaper now: http://www.ebay.com....86#ht_863wt_891

How long did they take to arrive? I'm looking at getting my rack ends through him.

is there a front and rear set of these?

cos I can occasionally hear clunking from the rear...

Let me know if you locate the clunking at the rear. Mine started making a clunking noise a month or so ago & unable to work out what it is. Seems totally random, not just turning a particular direction, accelerating, decelerating, bumpy or smooth road - can't get a handle on it. Audible from outside too.

Edited by Commsman

How long did they take to arrive? I'm looking at getting my rack ends through him.

Less than a week. Pretty happy all round with them - very quick (coming from Taiwan) and very cheap).

Isn't the rear clunking normally the sway bar links/mounts?

Less than a week. Pretty happy all round with them - very quick (coming from Taiwan) and very cheap).

Isn't the rear clunking normally the sway bar links/mounts?

That's pretty good then. Looks like I'm placing an order.whistling.gif

Sway Bar mounts & links are normally fairly repeatable; they either do, or they don't. They also load & unload fairly regularly, so they tend to be fairly vocal.

There is a ball joint in the upper "A" arm in the rear, the rest is bushes. Shouldn't be too hard to apply some leverage to the arm to check for noise.

Let me know if you locate the clunking at the rear. Mine started making a clunking noise a month or so ago & unable to work out what it is. Seems totally random, not just turning a particular direction, accelerating, decelerating, bumpy or smooth road - can't get a handle on it. Audible from outside too.

Mine is exactly the same...random...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...