Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you have a Vipec and you're running a map sensor, then the ATMO BOVs shouldn't be a problem. I've never liked them because the cars were never designed to operate that way, but thats just me, I've always noticed cars run better with the plumb back ones on. But where there are heavy mods, it doesn't usually matter any more.

Also, after clearing your cat, you might need a tune.

When I mentioned the plugs fouling, that will only happen with ATMO BOV's and AFMs.

But as I said earlier, with no cats, you will always get popping and flames, because the cats always block this. Its also how a cop can tell if you have not cat - because you are blowing flames. A smart one will simply hear it via the popping.

Anyway, the short version - No cats = popping and flames.

A cat will not stop the car popping and back firing.

On a dead standard brand new XR6T if you shift down a gear at the right point in the 6 Speed Autos, they will pop and back fire loudly (To the point I can make people jump on the sidewalk)

And yes, it has a fully functional cat.

Mufflers are what reduce the noise.

Must be tune related.

I would be looking at another tuner perhaps, if they missed such a thing on the initial tune what did they miss/not do second time around.

particularly if you had to drive back to QLD.

Mine as said above pops lightly on 1st to 2nd if i rev it out slowly sometimes, also has little flutter pops under deceleration, depends on conditions also how ive been driving etc.

Car runs bit rich at present and is going in for a tune shortly with new mods will see how she goes afer that.

GL with it.

i live in qld just a few hours west of brissie. would go somewhere else but then i'd have to pay. spent over 15k on the car when it went there in the first place so they can fix their stuff ups for free... i pay good money i expect a perfect job. They seem happy to try an fix it for me is just annyoying having a sick car in the mean time while i try an find time to take it back down. suprised it hasnt opened the exhaust up anywhere, the little flutter pops dont worry me its the ones that sound like an old black powder rifle.

When I fiddled with settings related to fuel cut(raising the cut), my car would often pop pop pop when the revs drop in a gear. On occasions, you get the massive f**k off BOOM MOTHER f**kER that will scare most people. Ive got a 5" cat. It most certainly is tune related. If I drop my fuel cut back to standard, its not as noticeable in the lower RPM range.

I think its quite awesome. My mates old GTIR would pop insanely. My old R33 would shoot flames, it had a gutted cat(which I honestly had no idea about).

I wrapped my dump pipe up in some heat wrap and now when I drive the car with abit of oomph, these pops are certainly more persistant lol.

Edited by SargeRX8

I'm the same as you mate

I like the sound of mine popping on decel haha

But it doesn't sound like a rifle its just a nice little pop here and there

Before I adjusted my TPS I had rifle shots.

I'm yet to see a nice flame as my left hand mirror is set up to look at the gutter for when parking (yet to master)

  • 1 month later...

I'm the same as you mate

I like the sound of mine popping on decel haha

But it doesn't sound like a rifle its just a nice little pop here and there

Before I adjusted my TPS I had rifle shots.

I'm yet to see a nice flame as my left hand mirror is set up to look at the gutter for when parking (yet to master)

TPS? wots that stand for? sorry im still at noob lol.

Car is booked in for friday, hopefully they can sort it an get it right this time. :unsure:

Took it back, had a diffrent tuner there, an they changed the tune a fair bit, now there is just one little bit that isnt perfect, sometimes when i change up a gear under full acceleration, the power comes on in the nxt gear for bout half a second, then it coughs then it goes hard, an only throws flames occasionally =) Oh an pick up nearly 40hp atw :woot: an the power comes on much beta an smoother down low.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...