Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

g'day folks.

i purchased an alloy radiator cheap from a mate brand new, never installed to suit my r32 gtr - only problem is that the thermoswitch (little brass screw in peice looks like a water temp sensor) has been crammed into position and has threaded the alloy thread that it screws into. (my skyline had a front end impact and the radiator and the thermoswitch sensor went to scrap metal - else id just use my thermo switch sensor)

He says the radiator originally had an 'aussie' metric thread that the thermoswitch was supposed to be screwed into. But the japanese nissan OEM thermoswitch had a tiny little thread, (not a metric thread) yet he still tryed to screw one into the other....... Now both the thread that the thermo fan switch screws into is buggered, and so is the thermoswitch itself as the brass thread has been destroyed..

I cant find these thermoswitch's anywhere ? can someone point me to one or even an aftermarket ont to suit an R32 GTR ?

ill also have to find out EXACTLY that size thread it is, as its a japanese thread which is way different to any threads we use in australia, as ill have to purchase a tap to tap a new hole into the radiator for the thermoswitch to go into

if anyone could point me in the right direction it'd be much appreciated.

thanks

Edited by r32gtrv-spec
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394827-r32-gtr-thermo-fan-switch/
Share on other sites

ive just been thinking - i have removed the entire AIR CONDITIONER SYSTEM, PUMP AND ALL. and that radiator that is for the aircon is the only thing with a thermo fan on it ??

is the thermoswitch that connects into the radiator, does that operate that thermofan for the A/C ??

i plan on running the clutch fan, so does that mean i can get rid of this thermoswitch ?? as im not running any thermofans ???

will this cause any problems ?

Edited by r32gtrv-spec

When the coolant reaches 95C+ it automatically switches the A/C fan on.

my gtr will only be used on strret, brand new M76544 tomei turbos, tomei cams tomei manfifolds hoping to achieve 500hp..

how necessary is it to use the A/C fan if intalling an aftermarket radiator and running the stock clutch fan ?

as ive ripped out the whole a/c SYSTEM including the a/c fan.. as i followed a thread on GTROC.co.uk it said to remove the fan aswell...

any ideas folks ? is it important to run a thermo fan aswell as the clutch fan ? even tho the aftermarket radiator is bigger holds more coolant

and ill only ever be giving it abit of a squirt round the streets, not full on racing it..

let me know your opinions and thoughts on this..

Else i need to get a new thermoswitch sensor, find out exactly what size it is and what type of thread, buy a tap and re-tap another thread into the radiator. easily done but would rather avoid the hassle of buying a bloody $40 tap to suit the size thread/hole..

cheers

Edited by r32gtrv-spec

as Ronin said - i am also after a new thermo switch sensor and the thread on mine is buggered..

if i could work out how to get nissan FAST working id search through it and find the part number etc for the item

let me know cheers

As said previously, when coolant temps reach 95degrees at what temps does the thermo fans switch off on an r32 gtr ??

i am considering buying a 'TRIDON' thermo fan sensor switch.. http://www.toymods.o...-catalogue.html that shows the whole catalogue..

thinking of buying somthing M16 X 1.5mm AND on at 95degrees and off at 85degrees ?

or should i have it turn off when its cooler ??

let me know asap good folks

cheers

Edited by r32gtrv-spec
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...