Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATED LIST OF PARTS AVAILABLE

Still got these parts to clear!!!

Can get pictures of everything on request.

rb25det s1 motor, complete minus turbo/manifold etc, compression 145-160 on all 6 cylinders - $1200

(made 194.6kw with std. turbo on 12psi with full exhaust and intercooler so very healthy)

rb25det s2 gearbox 86,000kms on it - $1500 or as a manual conversion kit $1800 (everything you need)

HKS GT2835r turbo (420hp rated, seen couple track days since rebuild made 290rwkw on another car)

kit including HKS cast manifold, Greddy ext. gate, screamer pipe, dump pipe, steel braided lines,

turbo intake and hot+cold side piping in lobster back stainless steel by AM Performance - $2200

AM Performance cat back exhaust system 2x2.5" in to 2x4" pipe with titanium tips - $950

Yellow Jackets coilpacks for s1 rb25 (all working, used for 1 year, fantastic coilpack, search forums) - $250

ORC Single plate clutch, 409 series unsprung center, used for 6months still in good cond - $400

Sparco sprint + R33 drivers rail 2 months old $650

Sparco Evo 2 Plus seat, no rails, brand new $500

Wlabro 550hp intank pump - $100

R33 BC BR Coilovers, used for 4000kms, like new - $900

KTS Sway bars front and rear with bushes - $350

R200 locked diff, tight as - $200

Kazama castor arms suit r33 and other models - $150 SOLD

Rear camber arms unknown brand, brand new - $100 on hold

R32 genuine GTR intercooler - 150

q45 afm - $80 SOLD

RB20/25 Short Shifter - $50

R33 Carbon Slam Panel/radiator cooling pannel - $100 on hold

R33 Nismo strut brace with brake stopper $180

Pineapples - $40

s2 dash surround with vents, buttons and clock, mint $100

s2 door trims with switches, mint $150

Work VS-XX 3pce wheels, 18x10 +13 front with kumho ku36 tyres 60%, 18x12 -4 rears with bridgestone tyres 40%

Just dropped two off to get re-polished and some rash taken out, may even re-powder coat the centers for those interested. Will be as new $3200

Make me an offer!! Im pretty reasonable, the worst I can say is no smile.gif

PM or 0422 314 938 - Marko

Edited by SkyHi_33

Also, im going away overseas in 3 weeks so want to clear everything!!!

Have all standard parts still on the shell, door trims, interior bits/consoles, engine bay stuff like brake master, clutch master, steering rack, alternator, starter motor, power steering pump, standard suspension arms, body panels, bonnet boot doors guards lights etc.

Everything must go!!!

Will be taking pictures of everything tomorrow and posting it up in here so keep an eye out, anything youre interested in PM me, Located in SA but can post anything anywhere!!!

Edited by SkyHi_33

Bought the R33 brake setup from Marko great guy to deal with sorted everything out including shipping and sent me heaps of pictures. Would definetly recommend him as a seller =] thanks you for pleasant smooth transaction.

Item was as described and pictured and boxed properly with all the parts/bolts.

Edited by DarkRyda

still got the z32, rear camber arms, castor arm and lock bar? pm me if so

Sorry, z32 and castor arms and lock bar are all sold, camber arms on hold! Will let you know if it falls through.

Bought the R33 brake setup from Marko great guy to deal with sorted everything out including shipping and sent me heaps of pictures. Would definetly recommend him as a seller =] thanks you for pleasant smooth transaction.

Item was as described and pictured and boxed properly with all the parts/bolts.

Thanks Justin, was a pleasure. Loving what youre doing with the brake kit and your car :)

Edited by SkyHi_33

Hi mate, is this a series 1? if it is i'm quite keen on the bonnet provided you still have it and can ship it to wa 6155 (at my expense of course)

Just let me know

Cheers

Nev

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...