Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone knows anything about Jasma

Exhausts or where I might find some...

Everyone I've asked has no idea, and the websites

are all Japanese (which I'm no good at)

Thanks in advance

btw. the badge number on this particular exhaust is.

JASMA

051

96-000 509

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39526-info-on-jasma-exhausts/
Share on other sites

JASMA = Japan Automotive Sports Muffler Association.

It's a standard that; if the muffler is constructed accordingly, they company making the muffler can weld on the JASMA badge. It's all about quality control, JASMA exhausts have to meet a 96db limit, amongst other things.

My Fujitsubo is Jasma rated at being quieter than stock - except between 4000 and 6000 RPM. Just where the EPA test it :P

The Fujitsubo site has good Jasma info - as well as dB ratings for all products - even sound samples!

Main site:

http://www.fujitsubo.co.jp

My exhaust:

http://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/search/prod-v.p...cnamID=00000514

Thanks Rezz... do u know whether its any good? or shud i sell it..

what do u suggest?

thnx again!

If it was my exhaust, I'd give it a good buffing and get it all shiny, and run it on the car for a while... I can't say that the Dual Dragger are THAT common, so in that case I'd hang on to it, unless of course you don't fancy the dual canisters...

JASMA approved exhausts run under 96dB for stocko cars right?

Have u had any or know of any experience with the dual drager?

I cant get any info on it, thus dont know whether or not its worth

it getting it fitted... Dual Canisters are fine, performance wise is more

important imo

The HKS Dual Dragger came about because of some ground clearance issues with the normal Super Dragger muffler on some cars, also at the time, the dual canisters were the "in" thing... most of the big-name manufacturers had their own "Dual type" mufflers. I wouldn't think performance would be any worse than a usual Super Dragger exhaust system, although it'd be a bit heavier.

If performance is the important thing, the only thing I'd do is sell the Dual Dragger and get a Titanium exhaust (any brand)... the weight saving alone is worth it IMO.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...