Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It's easy to stir this pot.

N/A skylines are shit and slow and will be eaten by a commonwhore.

*runs away and jumps in his 33 gtr because he knows that no p plater in a N/A skyline will catch him (except for a sss pulsar because sss pulsar > my gtr)*

Edited by eat_me

I know the n/a skylines are no performance car, plus trying to get huge amounts of power out of any p plate car isnt the smartest idea (5 points dont last long)..

i drive a non turbo R33 being a p plater and almost every one of my freinds has hung shit on it until they have been in it.. All of my freinds have commodores and one of them even sold his and bought an n/a skyline after driving mine..

I picked my car up for $4800 with rego and rwc.. and it drives 10 times better than any of my previous cars (celica, calais, statesman ect..) point being that even though they may not be as powerful as the turbo ones i dont see why p platers should be criticised against and called posers for driving the cars they have a passion for.. and in my opinion having owned both of them most japanese cars turbo or not are a lot better built and nicer to drive than your average commodore

And just to set the record straight, i have run against a few of my mates with commodores including a worked vs manual, vt and vy s pac and not one of them could keep up.. my car is bog stock except for a cat back..

sorry about the rant.. thats just my 2 cents

N/A 20B PP

2 litres, no turbo, big power.

Yeah, I went there.

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

I know the n/a skylines are no performance car, plus trying to get huge amounts of power out of any p plate car isnt the smartest idea (5 points dont last long)..

i drive a non turbo R33 being a p plater and almost every one of my freinds has hung shit on it until they have been in it.. All of my freinds have commodores and one of them even sold his and bought an n/a skyline after driving mine..

I picked my car up for $4800 with rego and rwc.. and it drives 10 times better than any of my previous cars (celica, calais, statesman ect..) point being that even though they may not be as powerful as the turbo ones i dont see why p platers should be criticised against and called posers for driving the cars they have a passion for.. and in my opinion having owned both of them most japanese cars turbo or not are a lot better built and nicer to drive than your average commodore

And just to set the record straight, i have run against a few of my mates with commodores including a worked vs manual, vt and vy s pac and not one of them could keep up.. my car is bog stock except for a cat back..

sorry about the rant.. thats just my 2 cents

well either they have massive amounts of kms on the engine and are flogged out (possibly flogged out auto gearboxes), or your mates can't drive. in healthy condition and driven decently they would beat you.

as for the SSS, most people on here know my feelings about them, lol.

I just don't get P platers and insisting on skylines or silvias etc.

take the blinkers off your eyes mate.

go have a drive in a Renault Sport Clio 172.

1050kg

124kw

leather bolstered seats

xenon head lights

throw it in to a corner or 2 and see if you an even remember what a non turbo skyline or silvia is.

that is just one example of many good cars for P platers.

Unless you want to pose.. then my post is of no use to you.

Mine is alright. Bought it off Karl Ryndler (V8 supercar driver).

Has a group N ecu and an exhaust, factory everything else.

By numbers it's a rockin' P plater car;

1) Mine Did 14.2 sec 1/4 mile at the motorplex (consistant 14.3's), and that's not even it's performance strength

2) goes around corners

3) Stops better than the Porsche 911 of the same year from the factory

4) no police attention

5) Safety features all round

6) rear seats come out in within 1 min due to clear design.

7) bolt in cage easy to obtain for track weekends

8) very light weight means track days are cheap

9) 6.8L / 100 km around town ecconomy

No N/A skyline/Silvia will touch it. At the drags even most of the turbo ones were slower on the night ha ha...

Mine is alright. Bought it off Karl Ryndler (V8 supercar driver).

Has a group N ecu and an exhaust, factory everything else.

By numbers it's a rockin' P plater car;

1) Mine Did 14.2 sec 1/4 mile at the motorplex (consistant 14.3's), and that's not even it's performance strength

2) goes around corners

3) Stops better than the Porsche 911 of the same year from the factory

4) no police attention

5) Safety features all round

6) rear seats come out in within 1 min due to clear design.

7) bolt in cage easy to obtain for track weekends

8) very light weight means track days are cheap

9) 6.8L / 100 km around town ecconomy

No N/A skyline/Silvia will touch it. At the drags even most of the turbo ones were slower on the night ha ha...

+1 for Clio's, my mate had one bog stock on semi slicks and around corners was the fastest car i've been in :worship: in first, second and a little bit of third it use to stay level with my cousins 200rwkw R33.

+1 , knew it

You know nothing.

You said they run 14s. There's a massive difference between a "15" second car and a 14 second car.

And if it was a 15.9 then you didn't know it. No mention of what, if any mods were done to the "15" second car. You claimed stockos do 14s. They do not. Flat 16s, maybe a high 15 is what they will do stock. Do the usual mods, exhaust and CAI and you might see a mid to low 15, maybe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...