Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you are planning on getting the car & modding it, id suggest u dont. I was in the same boat as u. Almost bought a N/A skyline 3 times but I took ppl's advice & I waited to get off my P's coz if i got it I would have thrown lots of money at it & then bought a turbo when i got my opens anyways.

Just my 2 cents.

Of course you were. You were in an NA R34

  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If I had to pick a cheap N/A car it would be what I had when I was on my p's a ford laser ke tx3 all it had was extractors, some 14" meshies, and two seats everything else was stripped the f**k out my missus hated it shopping would go everywhere but I sure had fun rallying it though the bush every Arvo after work and only paid $300 bucks with rego.

The shit boxs are the most fun IMO ended up getting side swiped by some dog drink driving.

^ true, my shitbox was a 700 dollar 91 sexcel with chrome hubcaps and a flower on the keychain and alot of other girly accessories, but it was actually a ton of fun.

Kinda miss it lol no power steering was fun.

^ true, my shitbox was a 700 dollar 91 sexcel with chrome hubcaps and a flower on the keychain and alot of other girly accessories, but it was actually a ton of fun.

Kinda miss it lol no power steering was fun.

Had one of those aswell was my missus car but she didn't have her licence so I ended up having it went rallying one night with a mate and reversed it through a gate at peak revs lol the gate did not budge :(

that tells most of the story, but not all of it. how an engine delivers it's power will give a better indication of how fast it will be. plus gear ratios. for example, if a commodore had gear ratios similar to those of a skyline then they would give even mild turbo skiylines a bit of a scare because of the amount of low down power they produce compared to small engined turbo cars. they would also be a nightmare to launch without a ploom of tyre smoke.

we should also mention that all the weights and power figures are wrong.

we should also mention that all the weights and power figures are wrong.

Ummm, no, no they are not. Unless, of course, you know better than the factories who built them.

S15 - 120Kw 1200kg - factory figures

VY Commonwhore - 1522kg - 152kw - factory figures

R34 coupe - 140kw or 147kw - turbo is 1410kg so I did take a stab and estimate around 1350kg and used Wikipedia for the power.

So, apart from the R34, the spec are correct and I think it's fair to say the R34 specs are pretty damn close to correct.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...