Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Straight down the middle of the stud

Cut studs flush with face

Centre punch middle of end of stids

Dril with smallish dril first

Dril again in same hole with drill larger than stud

Use decent metal drills ones for hardened steel would make it a heap easier, dont overheat your drill bit, some drilling compound wil help too

Cause u can probably use the studs that currently hd the wheels on

If you cut the the spacer you cut those studs as well

Us i dont think i would enjoy cutting thru it with cutting wheel on a grinder

I don't understand; of course cutting through the side of the spacer and stud will damage it.

Explain to me how cutting 10mm off them, leaving them too short to use later on, and then drilling down the centre of the stud is going to leave it intact?rolleyes.gif

Are you suggesting drilling through the captive studs in the spacer? You might as well drill a hole in the window for all the good that will do.

Why wouldn't you enjoy cutting metal with a metal cutting disc on a grinder? That's what they're made to do; I'm not suggesting he uses a Chainsaw...

i must say i will try hang out for the tool . iv been out there for 30 mins drilling one out , then try with hammer and chisel , still doesnt want to move... more wd40 is sinking in now , so ill attempt it again.

daelo , i dont think that will work without interfearing with the standard studs

As above ;

The whole point of my post was, that if you were prepared to sacrifice the studs (which you will by drilling down the centre; I assure you); my way will take about 10 minutes a side, versus about 3 hours drilling down the centre of the studs

By the time you've chiselled or welded near these spacers; you're going to throw the spacers in the bin anyway.

New wheel studs are like $5 each. how much fuel and hassle have you spent already, driving all over looking for a tool no-one has?

I think you might be missing the point a little...whistling.gif

Edited by Daleo

OK if it were me and I couldn't get a tool anywhere I would go to one of several engineering shops I know and get them to make me one. All you need is a great long lever with prongs sticking out to put on the holes. If you show an engineer ( as in metalworker /welder/fabricator ) the problem I am sure they could whip something up in under an hour which would do the job.

OK if it were me and I couldn't get a tool anywhere I would go to one of several engineering shops I know and get them to make me one. All you need is a great long lever with prongs sticking out to put on the holes. If you show an engineer ( as in metalworker /welder/fabricator ) the problem I am sure they could whip something up in under an hour which would do the job.

I think the problem will be the cost of the item; if I were to fabricate a tool to do that, it would be close to the cost of a new set of studs. Why bother at that point?

there is two sets of wheels studs here people...

one set that he can destroy to get the spacer off and another set that if he does cut or damage can be used once he removes this crap

I'm not sure you really understand what's going on here. You do realise the longer set are only pressed into the spacer? Cutting these will not release the spacer.

The ones that have the recessed nuts (the ones that require the tool) on them are the issue.

Replacing wheel studs is a simple job; these ones are likely to be corroded anyway; that's why I'm suggesting cutting his losses and just scrapping the spacers and studs.

At the end of the day; he's 11 days down since the first post, and the spacers are still where they started out.

Why worry about wrecking something you're going to chuck in the bin? It's just stupid.

How's it going mate? Got them off yet? Must say I'm leaning towards the directness of Dale's approach - angle grinder, eye protection, ear protection..... away you go. Don't worry about the oem studs - they are inexpensive and simple to replace.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...