Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dear All,

Just wondering if anyone out there had a rough idea what it would cost to build up a "decent" (I'll define what i call decent later) drift R33. It's great to read magazines and see what people are doing to there cars and the results they have achieved, but what is missing is how much it has cost them. I am saving HARD to buy an R33 and as soon and as i get it i hopefully will modify it up to go drifting. I was just wondering what you guys thought it would cost (not counting price of the car obviously) to do up an R33 with just, say, mild mods (front mount, exhaust, possibly high flow turbo, oil cooler (I have read this is important for drift cars), suspension, possibly brakes (is pad upgrade just enough or should further mods be applied?), better seat (if necessary) and of course shiny gear knob and little blue lights for windscreen wipers) :Bang:

ANY light you could shed on these issues would be GREATLY appreciated so i know how much to save. (that is of course unless the "light" you shed is to tell me to go do the hard work and find out myself).

I figured if ANYONE ANYWHERE would know someone here would

Thanks,

Haz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39609-decent-drift-r33/
Share on other sites

AS Above, or hand keys to me!!! :D:D;)

I have a R33, Gun metal Grey one in the next issue of HPI (Driftland invitational write up) which I was drifting with the following.

Heavy duty single plate clutch. (Think it was rated 1300kgsish???) $1100

More boost (although this is not essential, just makes life easier!) $350

FMIC $1600

Pod $came on car

Cat back zorst $came on car

Lowering springs $came on car (I have these at home, they are still in good condition and will sell to anyone that is interested)

All the rest was standard as far as I know.

I have recetly changed for strength's sake

Full Whiteline Kit $2200

Mechanically Locked diff (sucks arse in carparks)

Apexi Power FC

and some dedicated drift rims as a set of tyres doesn't seem to last too long anymore!

I think that is about it.

Really you should be able to drift a stock GTS-25t without too much trouble, you just need to be a little rougher with it to get it out there... but forunatly the r33 came standard with a handbrake... which is really usefull when power is not at it's optimum!!! ;) (or you **** up your entry!)

Hope that helps.

Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39609-decent-drift-r33/#findComment-805675
Share on other sites

The ex-JMS red R33 is for sale in Adelaide for mi $30k point. That car would be perfect to buy as it have thousands and thousands of $$$$ spent on it (over $70k i think). The car make 282rwkW on low boost (now 308rwkW i think after tuning).

If you want to save money, and have the best R33 around, buy this car :rant:

Benny Mack

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39609-decent-drift-r33/#findComment-806404
Share on other sites

(I'm gonna cop some wrath for this :Bang: )........

drift car = damage and short life

I cant think of a better reason to start with a 33!

1 less r33 = 1 million take 1 r33's on the roads of Australia

When ur done with the 33 upgrade to a 32 or 34 lol

BTW a BIG :jk:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39609-decent-drift-r33/#findComment-812674
Share on other sites

Hey All,

Thanks for all the advice, the reason i wanted an R33 is just coz i cant afford an R34. As for the JMS R33, damn i love that car, its so sick, i'd love to buy it, but finance is sadly lacking. I wish i had seen that post about the oran park round yesterday but i was at a mates house drinking too much beer. I only live at wollongong so i easily could have driven up for the day. ah well. thanks again i will take it all into consideration and hopefully you guys can get some vids posted of the round today

--Haz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39609-decent-drift-r33/#findComment-817432
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

the problem with 33s is they are about as expensive to mod as a gtr, unlike a silvia or r32, which are cheap as chips for most parts.

replacement parts are also more expensive and harder to come across....like headlights, taillights, things like that.

im setting my r33 up for serious drifting, but im not exactly saving up to buy the car in the first place. drifting costs money, lots of money...and you will break things. if you had the money for a 34, then buy a 33 for drift, if you have the money for a 33 then buy a 32 for drift.

cheers

Linton

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39609-decent-drift-r33/#findComment-1404135
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...