Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

Now that I have the time to look at r35s, I am finally in the position of putting a deposit on one end of this week. I have a few questions that have been nagging me and I'm sure they'll be answered once I take it to Nissan. But would appreciate if anyone could chime in. I am looking at a 09 model FYI but may push of a 10 if it is really low K's and pristine condition.

* Is an 09 model here the equivalent of a '59' plate? Do all 09 models here miss out of sat nav and have the low res screens or are they all the same? If so, which year do these become available? 2010? Apart from sat nav, is the low res/high res screen a big difference?

* From what I've heard, 09s here come with LC2... if the VDC had been turned off before, will Nissan void warranty ? Probably not too important seeing more 09s will be out of warranty soon. But asking just in case as I am also looking at a 2010 too.

Thanks

ECL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396120-urgent-helpadvice-needed/
Share on other sites

warranty is only void if something breaks whilst VDC was off - nissan seems to believe they can drill that far down with their consult III when diagnosing a problem

2010 brought with it the digital mfd, so higher res, dvd playback (very easy to hack for constant playback), nav, bluetooth streaming mp3. It also has auto headlights but that's no big deal. The screen is the biggest gain in the 2010, it really is a richer higher quality unit

i have a 2010 and can use LC with any suspension setting in VDC-R mode - im not sure that's possible with the 09 model. The benefit there is you can theoretically use LC all day long in VDC-R on a stock car and still be covered under warranty. The benefit i find though is a much smoother LC in VDC-R + Comfort as it reduces my excessive wheelspin somewhat (at my power level and with lighter/less grippy 21" road tyres)

Edited by domino_z

warranty is only void if something breaks whilst VDC was off - nissan seems to believe they can drill that far down with their consult III when diagnosing a problem

2010 brought with it the digital mfd, so higher res, dvd playback (very easy to hack for constant playback), nav, bluetooth streaming mp3. It also has auto headlights but that's no big deal. The screen is the biggest gain in the 2010, it really is a richer higher quality unit

i have a 2010 and can use LC with any suspension setting in VDC-R mode - im not sure that's possible with the 09 model. The benefit there is you can theoretically use LC all day long in VDC-R on a stock car and still be covered under warranty. The benefit i find though is a much smoother LC in VDC-R + Comfort as it reduces my excessive wheelspin somewhat (at my power level and with lighter/less grippy 21" road tyres)

+1 ^ this. I also have a 2010 and highly recommend getting it over the 2009. Not that there's anything wrong with a low kms 2009, I just prefer having iPod control/USB port built in, as well as the higher res screen. :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...