Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It's not about the input, it's the output (of the Z32 ECU) that makes the light stay on!

The Z32 has no EHG sensor, nor does it have an EHG warning light.

So if you disconnect the EHG sensor it does do nothing at all (except wasting your time);)

Again:Are you absolutely sure the revs drop now (after Matt sent back the ECU) when you engage the AC?

Just tried the z32 ecu with the exhaust temp unplugged under the passenger seat. No dice, still got the light on the dash.

It's not about the input, it's the output (of the Z32 ECU) that makes the light stay on!

The Z32 has no EHG sensor, nor does it have an EHG warning light.

So if you disconnect the EHG sensor it does do nothing at all (except wasting your time);)

Again:Are you absolutely sure the revs drop now (after Matt sent back the ECU) when you engage the AC?

yeh, what you say makes sense , but I figured it would be worth a try.

And yes the revs drop as soon as the a/c is put on at idle.

Hmmm,

Fair enough, it does not hurt trying (also educational) :)

I am slightly puzzled about the revs now dropping.

All what Matt did was disconnecting PIN33 (on the Z32 ECU) and that PIN33 has no connection whatsoever to the fast idle circuit.

Something does not add up.

If all fails Matt has to undo whatever he did, and you would have to remove the bulb in the dash.

yeh, what you say makes sense , but I figured it would be worth a try.

And yes the revs drop as soon as the a/c is put on at idle.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just closing this thread out. Factory service manual has the S1 pinouts, but later in the workshop manual it discusses FICD and TPS which are series 2 specific. This means there were updates to the manual by Nissan which are internally contradictory because the manual does not clearly differentiate S1 and S2 changes.

Also contrary to the manual Pin 33 remains the exhaust temp lamp on S2 (not Pin 32 which must be a typo). So this line gets cut, the fuel temp line going to it gets a dropping resistor to remove the fuel pump temp DTC error. FICD needs to be routed from the FICD driver IC to Pin 36. Documents to cover internal S2 modifications updated accordingly

http://nistune.com/docs/Z32_ECU_Modifications_Direct_R33_Plugin%20V7.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...