Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

words.gif

imagezjf.gif

Proudly Presents:

Import Monster SAU-Vic DECA Motorkhana ROUND 2 of 4 of the 2012 DECA CHAMPIONSHIP

When : Saturday 5th May 2012

Where : DECA - Shepparton, 145 Wanganui Road, Shepparton, VIC 3630

Cost : $85

Max Entries : 50 + Reserves

-= PLEASE NOTE =-

The insurer of the event (AASA) has issued supplimentary regulations that require all entrants to wear helmets during all competition. This includes the skidpan and all battles.

This also impacts passengers, as they must wear a helmet prior to entering a competition vehicle.

A fire extinguisher is required by all entrants. This is for your own safety.

Please re-read the supplimentary regulations before entering the event.

Entry Form & Supp. Regs.HERE

NO PAYMENT, YOU WILL NOT BE ON THE LIST

FILL OUT FORMS COMPLETELY. INCOMPLETE FORMS WILL NOT GO ONTO ENTRY LIST.

***Also, if you are emailing you entry, please name the attached file after your full name and what page it is. eg. 'Ryan Bell Disclaimer'.

Event Schedule: http://sau.ferni.net...ay2012Sched.pdf

Results: Not yet available

All withdrawles will be refunded after the event. Refunds will not be given after 5pm Monday 30th April.

Anyone paying by cheque MUST make the cheque out to Skylines Australia Victoria. Cheques made out to anything else WILL BE REJECTED.

Please support our sponsors : Import Monster Pty. Ltd. Factory 3, 6 Wigan Road Bayswater VIC 3153 (03) 9008 0031

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Entry List:

1. Import Monster

2. Import Monster

3. Leon Stapley 180sx

4. Ryan Bell 180sx

5. Mike Lowry 200sx

6. Ashley Stacey R33 GTR

7. Clive Small Lancer

8. Paul Stephenson EVO VII

9. Ekaterina Glebova EVO VII

10. Mario West EVO VIII

11. Jason Carey R33 GTS-t

12. Dean Course R33 GTS-t - you break it, you brought it. (in your case, you pay for it)

13. Campbell Shobbrook R33 GTS-t - you break it, you brought it. (in your case, you fix it)

14. Scott Andrew R33 GTS-t

15. Mark Ryan R33 GTS-t

16. Sean Power S14

17. Shane Janssen VXR

18. Megan Van-something VXR

19. Jett Benson 180sx

20. Chris Taylor 300zx

21. Daniel Taylor S14

22. Gary swift 180sx

23. Mathew Butters Pulsar

24. DaviDDDDDDDD Milano skyline

25. Brent Germain R33 GTS-t

26. Travis Eva S13

27. Michael Bourke VK

28. Lloyd Waldron MR2

29. Laith Graham R33 GTS-t

30. Thai long Chieu Corona

31. Josh Miller Corona

32. Jovan Atanasovski S15

33. The Bris R32

34. Robert Nigro R32 GTS-t

35. Andy Theobald GSR

36. Damien Nebel STI

37. Martin Sullivan S14

38. Jeremy Taylor S14

39. James Newton WRX

40.

41.

42.

43.

44.

45.

46.

47.

48.

49.

50.

Reserve:

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Will there be a Mega Wang like last time? (was awesome!!)

I saw in Officials section it says mini Wang.

I am on holidays interstate but will be getting to computer and fax tomorrow hopefully.

Will there be a Mega Wang like last time? (was awesome!!)

I saw in Officials section it says mini Wang.

I am on holidays interstate but will be getting to computer and fax tomorrow hopefully.

there are a few changes for this one :thumbsup:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...