Jump to content
SAU Community

Vehicle Examination Help

jackdanielz

By jackdanielz,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

jackdanielz Collaborator

jackdanielz

Posted
Posted

So I went to the pit last friday.. Change everything back to stock, stock exhaust, stock suspension, stock everything basically..

But u know them, they can always find something, so heres what I get done for..

1. Well secured Pod Filter

I heard that this is a grey area in the pits.. Some inspector would say yes and some wouldnt..

2. Steering pulling to the left

WA suspension checked this when I told them its pulling to the left before wheel alignment and they say thats normal

3. Not having a heater that acts as a demister

I bypassed my heater core since its leaking.. but for all I know you'd have a mist on your windscreen when the air inside is hotter than the air outside, ie. winter nights or rainy days, Ive checked this in my other car too and it is blowing cold air to remove mist (not hot air)..

Ive check the document on DOT website and it says modifications on airconditioning system falls into "mods that dont require an approval"

I was just wondering what do people do in situations like this? cause I feel like they're just making stuff up..

I mean, considering the girl who has her van inspected before me, were asked to drive the inspector back to paperwork area (other side of pit, welshpool) and that was the "road test" where as with mine "road test" involved 5 min drive outside the DOT complex plus picking up another fellow inspector and another 10 minutes drive..

And no! I cant sit in the car while they're driving, which is probably because I havent got my hot pants on nor my boobs are hanging out my top!

Any help or pointer would be much appreciated..

Cheers

bly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396680-vehicle-examination-help/
Share on other sites
Grifforelli Community Regular

Grifforelli

Posted
Posted

If that was your first time at the pits with this sticker then don't worry about it mate.

I went over the pits 3 times and my car was pretty close to stock but they just kept on picking little niggly things like rear wipers etc etc. It's not technically their job to make our lives hard but if they are having a shit day then it makes them feel better about themselves. I know that if I worked at the pits every man and his dog with a low falcadore and 20 inch chrome rims would never ever passed simply because I'm an arsehole and don't like them.

I have no idea about your car but mine is a yellow sticker attracter.And that's the way that I want it. (not attracting yellow stickers but you get the idea)

As for the pod filter I took a nice trip down to bunnings and spent about $25 on some 5mm ally bar. Drilled some holes in it and then bent it so it fitted into the holes for the pod->afm and then where there used to be the stock air box. I made sure there was two mounting points for the ally bar and it felt sturdy when you grabbed it.

It's unfortunate that we all seem to get yellow stickers and "harrassed" by the police but that's the way it is and I don't see it changing any time soon unless someone decides to blow up the ACA and Today Tonight studios.

My 2c Billy and if you need any help and live NOR then I'm more than happy to give you a hand. Send me a PM and I'll give you my number so we can have super sexy pit preparation time.

Mitch

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

So I went to the pit last friday.. Change everything back to stock, stock exhaust, stock suspension, stock everything basically..

But u know them, they can always find something, so heres what I get done for..

1. Well secured Pod Filter

I heard that this is a grey area in the pits.. Some inspector would say yes and some wouldnt..

2. Steering pulling to the left

WA suspension checked this when I told them its pulling to the left before wheel alignment and they say thats normal

3. Not having a heater that acts as a demister

I bypassed my heater core since its leaking.. but for all I know you'd have a mist on your windscreen when the air inside is hotter than the air outside, ie. winter nights or rainy days, Ive checked this in my other car too and it is blowing cold air to remove mist (not hot air)..

Ive check the document on DOT website and it says modifications on airconditioning system falls into "mods that dont require an approval"

I was just wondering what do people do in situations like this? cause I feel like they're just making stuff up..

I mean, considering the girl who has her van inspected before me, were asked to drive the inspector back to paperwork area (other side of pit, welshpool) and that was the "road test" where as with mine "road test" involved 5 min drive outside the DOT complex plus picking up another fellow inspector and another 10 minutes drive..

And no! I cant sit in the car while they're driving, which is probably because I havent got my hot pants on nor my boobs are hanging out my top!

Any help or pointer would be much appreciated..

Cheers

bly

have you considered not taking it to a DOT inspection complex? . .. .there is a listing somewhere on the WA section that you can take your car to

turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
Posted

Once you have your vehicle inspected by a workshop, and they give you a further improvment notice. You have to go back there until the sticker is taken off.

Next time it might pay to go somewhere else

jackdanielz Collaborator

jackdanielz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the reply guys.. that is my plan, to just get it to the approved inspection station.. any skyline's friendly station that you guys may know?

As for mitch, PM sent.. Check ur inbox please..

browneye91 Enthusiast

browneye91

Posted
Posted

^^ this. Pits second time round is easy if you fix the stuff they want. They only check those area`s.

As for the test drive they cant stop you from going with them, it`s your car!

My times over the pits were easy all i changed was my bonnet and raised my coilovers and they were happy.

I think you just got a bad draw. :\

jackdanielz Collaborator

jackdanielz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I went to one of the approved mechanics on friday without any changes.. and guess what they passed it all except for the pod filter, they offered to pass me if I come back with stock airbox in the same day.. and consequently passed me the next day after I installed stock airbox (kudos to voncina).

they are really nice, as long as you rock up with something that isnt illegal and not acting like a prick, they would actually listen to your argument and decide on that, really helpful people imo..

just a heads up, apparently new rule on pods so called "minor" mods, not matter how minor you have to have a permit as per april 2012..

from now on I will keep my stock exhaust and suspension..

cheers for all the help and reply guys..

Mayuri Krab Grand Master

Mayuri Krab

Posted
Posted

just a heads up, apparently new rule on pods so called "minor" mods, not matter how minor you have to have a permit as per april 2012..

I better go & find my stock air box in the garage then...

ossie_21 Grand Master

ossie_21

Posted
Posted

You've needed a permit for them anyway, but in most cases they leave it alone because as said it's pretty minor. If the police use that to their advantage & sticker every car with a pod filter but no permit, then that will just be a complete dog act

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LegendGTR
      EFR7670 exhaust selection RB26

      By LegendGTR · Posted

      I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • PranK
      Stock Airbox and Snorkle for RWC - VIC west

      By PranK · Posted

      Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • PranK
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By PranK · Posted

      This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...