Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

More than likely had a few mods, I mean a GTR that is 15 years old is bound to have encountered some fiddling here and there

The fact that it is still going strong means that whatever it had done to it, was performed properly and has done no real damage, and must have had a owner that looked after it

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Errr Ok then.

Most 15 year old Japanese imports have been looked after by one mature gentleman owner, who never revved it over 2000rpm on his way to the pachinko parlour and had installed a triple plate clutch to help exercise his new artificial hip. Doctors advice. Get real! Nothing wrong with an old thrasher. They are well cool!

Next you will be telling me that Japs dont knock speedos! :P I laughed hard when the first yard I went to in Japan they had dashes lined up on the bench, winding kays off them. Ever noticed how many imports have 50,000km or 70,000km on them?

If its already been trained to thrash, then count yourself lucky someone in Japan has broken it in for you, and get on with the job of flogging the thing over here

hahah martin i agree with everythin u have written and also tell people that sorta thing. Mate i know my car aswell as almost everyother jap import has been thrashed to death, then us aussies buy them off them :P

Im sayin give the bloke a break thats all. Hes happy to have his car.

I wish I bought an ex drift car - probably would have saved me a bloody fortune in mods

Triple plate clutch, only one reason for that, and who knows whats inside the engine:) God it would be tempting to pull the engine down just to check. How is the idle? And heat shielding.... ah if only they could talk.

Well I guess I wont spare it any 8000RPM launches now :P

Just need to build up the courage, and definitely off street too! (Anyone know any "private" roads? ;p)

Idle isn't lumpy so no cams(or maybe not that agressive), guess I'll find out whats inside when I need to do something...in the meantime, guess I'll just get used to living with the original Godzilla.

Martin: I'm not disilusioned about the wound back speedo, I;m just happy the interior doesn't have any rips and the indicator stalks aren't white and the dash isn't cracked...but it does show its age in the speakers. The rubber surround dissintegrated when I touched it.

As far as I know if it was built to be driven hard, then I will put it to use! (Glad the jap owner agreed too, who needs "posers"?)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...