Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just came up with these for the sticker.

SAU_1.gif

SAU_1_COM.gif

SAU_1_COM_LHS.gif

SKYLINESAUSTRALIA_ORANGE.gif

SKYLINESAUSTRALIA_RED.gif

SKYLINESAUSTRALIA_RED_COM.gif

Renders

Renders of what it would look like on the car

render1.jpg

render2.jpg

I still want to do a few more logos, one using the actual Nissan Skyline font, if anyone has that font could you please pm me.

Edited by Howie
  • Replies 7.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

the www.skylinesaustralia.com is a font called AGGIE.

I ended up using a custom made stacked SAU logo.

All artwork has been submitted now, should have final product within a week or so.

I am stoked!

thats the font looking good on those renders

stickers r good but if ur driving fast or long way away u cant c the stickers!!! thats y i think we need some sort of special underground wave or somthing (like spys) so we know each other. lol

I usually just gave one or two impulsive high beams when I saw any skylines, but most of them just gave me that WTF-look. :ermm:

I guess they were probably not from SAU.

Edited by bixby

Cheerz buddy. :laugh:

Right now, i'm asking splice_exa who usually does the nissanexa.com and clubpsi stickers to get us a rough price on doing the sau ones. If anyone else has contacts in the sticker area please let me know.

yesterday whilst looking for a car around the royal show, spotted andrew's r34. Your car always that clean/spotless mate - suprising since it was a rainy day.

also spotted a white r33

post-1473-1157783119.jpg

yes, I got off my ass. just came back from a light drive, first time Ive driven a decent turbo car again in 11 months. wwoohoo

Darren/Vange, you know what that means now dont you...

keep seeing a purple (midnight purple, maybe?) R33 GTR with a GT wing and chrome mirrors driving around the craigmore area, seems to be a chick driver most times. anyone here?

thanks Duc .... I try to keep it clean but it was filthy after sitting under the tree for the arvo/night :D .... spotted Madaz at the BP West Tce on the way there too :)

33s lookin good Duc! i'll let you know about those coil-overs later this week.

thanks mate, that would be great. my spokes are going to be black and i want it be low before i make them black. =)

yesterday whilst looking for a car around the royal show, spotted andrew's r34. Your car always that clean/spotless mate - suprising since it was a rainy day.

also spotted a white r33

post-1473-1157783119.jpg

yes, I got off my ass. just came back from a light drive, first time Ive driven a decent turbo car again in 11 months. wwoohoo

Darren/Vange, you know what that means now dont you...

Yeh it means it's about bloody time Duc, was starting to think that car of yours was non existant! :)

Okay guys, i've got the final specs sorted out...

post-950-1157969706.gif

I'm going get these printed out to see how they turn out... hopefully i've got the sizes just right (not too big not too small).

Edited by Howie
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...