Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

3000 RPM = 85 HP

3500 RPM = 120 HP

4000 RPM = 160 HP

4500 RPM = 240 HP

5000 RPM = 415 ish HP

5500 RPM = 470 ish HP

6000 RPM = 545 HP

6500 RPM = 610 HP

7000 RPM = 660 HP

7500 RPM = 700 HP

7900 RPM or so = 733 HP

* Going off the brown line

240hp at 4500rpm.....wouldn't want to be taking this thing through many tight twisty roads or traffic. It would feel like a sling shot when it comes on though no doubt. The real shocker is 3000rpm, my stock 10 year old commodore makes more than that at 3000rpm, so just cruising around town this GTR at least in my case would be way too laggy.

Sure the final number is great, about 542rwkw, but for anything other than drag racing, more area under the curve is needed.

Area under the curve doesn't impress most people though compared to a big number, so not a lot of people care which is a shame

Rhe commodore has another 1000cc capacity though

No 2.8l low compression motor that is designed to rev hard is going to be exciting at 3000rpm. Especially when it has big cams etc

Yeah fair enough but also it's a POS and has no turbo.

Anyway, I'm not trying to put this result down or anything, just IMO it doesn't seem to be a very usable car around town. Who knows, the owner may just love revving the shit out of it and good on him cause above 5500rpm it would be moving bigtime and would leave my GTR for dead in a straight line.

FYI Paul makes 201rwhp at 3000rpm, 270 cams, 2.8 etc which is close enough to 2.3 times the power. So yeah has certainly be done.

True!

My 33 made peak torque at 3000rpm can't remember the figure power wise though wouldve been around the 110-120kw range, was a straight line upto 6500rpm :D

Much nicer than the 1j lol

I guess it could also be that if a fast ramp rate was used it would push the curve to the right and make it look laggier than what it is

If you were 'cruising around town' then you wouldn't need to accelerate...so 4th gear at 70KM/H would be fine with low power. And if you did want to accelerate, then simply put it into 2nd (and right into its power band).

Although, I would have to agree that any twisties and it would make a much bigger difference. It's horses for courses.

And yes, zebra, a dyno run may not accurately reflect on-road performance for various reasons - they are really more of a tuning tool.

haha my gtr makes about 65hp at 3000rpm an bout 290hp 5000rpm an only makes 420hp atw 7800rpm pretty sure my car didnt make 100hp at 3000rpm even stocklol if

i wanted low down grunt i'd buy a falcon... but only reving to 6-6.5k? thats a bit gay lol

hmm stroking the engine is on the verge of cheating lol an if ur gunna stroke it why not go an rb30/26... then why not get a 3.2L stroker kit for it... or why not go one step bigger again an u got a 4l falcon engine lol or i did see a gtr with a gen III v8 under the hood with a cpl turbo's hanging off it lol each to their own. an yes in town i would swap for a stroked engine very quickly, as its rather hard to give it 60% a bit at the lights, its either a full on launch or 4wd diesels can beat me if i idle off lol an thats a little embarressing :blush:

240hp at 4500rpm.....wouldn't want to be taking this thing through many tight twisty roads or traffic. It would feel like a sling shot when it comes on though no doubt. The real shocker is 3000rpm, my stock 10 year old commodore makes more than that at 3000rpm, so just cruising around town this GTR at least in my case would be way too laggy.

Sure the final number is great, about 542rwkw, but for anything other than drag racing, more area under the curve is needed.

Area under the curve doesn't impress most people though compared to a big number, so not a lot of people care which is a shame

You need to come for a drive with me Steveo :)

240hp at 4500rpm.....wouldn't want to be taking this thing through many tight twisty roads or traffic. It would feel like a sling shot when it comes on though no doubt. The real shocker is 3000rpm, my stock 10 year old commodore makes more than that at 3000rpm, so just cruising around town this GTR at least in my case would be way too laggy.

Sure the final number is great, about 542rwkw, but for anything other than drag racing, more area under the curve is needed.

Area under the curve doesn't impress most people though compared to a big number, so not a lot of people care which is a shame

if you can't drive a car with a 3500RPM powerband you need to stick with your stock commie lol, plenty of fun to be had, just need to know how to change down gears.

you can't compare 3000rpm in a car which is limited at like 6500rpm, and is useless above about 5000, to a car that revs to 8000rpm and has torque to the limiter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...