Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, sorry if this topic has been done to death, Ive been doing alot of searches on the forums and its hard to find anything definitive or recent

Im looking at buying an R34 GT-T (pretty much stock including turbo, exhaust, intake, wheels etc) from interstate, no import papers but it is complied and has current rego. As far as I can figure out, all I need is proof of purchase, blue slip and green slip and I can register the car in NSW, hand in the old plates and get given new NSW plates.

BUT........ a mate of mine who is fairly into cars says that it might not be legal to register and that he had a mate who had a silvia/180sx which he bought in vic but it wasnt legal to be registered in nsw and had to resell it in vic (Im guessing illegal mods since he does hang out with the hektic skid kiddies/P platers but he wouldn't say why it wasnt legal to be registered). I reckon he is full of BS, but unfortunately he does know a lot about cars and I know jack all.

Eg he says an eboost controller with the stock turbo @ 10psi is garbage and pointless and the biggest waste of money, but I don't know turbos and he has built his VL turbo with an RB in it from scratch so I can't really call him out

Can anyone help out with advice, I would rather find out before I go ahead and buy the car? Im going to ring up the RTA today, but since I deal with them with work, I know what their knowledge levels are like and have little faith in the RTA when it comes to anything obscure and specific.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397547-buying-a-car-from-interstate-rego/
Share on other sites

Hey, I agree that it should all be straight forward and just require a blue slip. Although it can depend on the blue slip place u go to as some are harsher than others in regards to modifications. Your best bet is to call rta technical inquiries line as they are the only useful rta ppl to speak to in regards to cars, imports, adrs and modifications.

1300 137 302

Good luck! :)

Find a blue slip place before hand and ask what they need.

I picked up a V35 from QLD and when registering it here in NSW, the blue slip place asked for full import documentation including all original compliance paperwork (thats what they were asked to supply) luckily the guy i bought it from had a nice folder for me ready to go with the car.

I think it also can be "randomly chosen" (read 99.99999% of imports are randomly chosen) to go through the pits for an ID check. This is where i believe some poeple run into probs with mods, not at the blue slip place.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/getnewrego/interstatevehicles.html

thats the link regarding what you need.

when you say pretty much stock, what mods have been done? Have a look under the car and make sure there are no hidden suprises (e.g. de-cat pipe)

When i went through it, it was basically the same as renewing the rego, but you needed a blue slip too. (It was my daily, not the the gtr)

Ensure all the complience plates are on the car and the engine/chassis number match what the car has. (as was mentioned before, you may need to supply original complience paperwork)

http://www.rta.nsw.g...tevehicles.html

thats the link regarding what you need.

when you say pretty much stock, what mods have been done? Have a look under the car and make sure there are no hidden suprises (e.g. de-cat pipe)

When i went through it, it was basically the same as renewing the rego, but you needed a blue slip too. (It was my daily, not the the gtr)

Ensure all the complience plates are on the car and the engine/chassis number match what the car has. (as was mentioned before, you may need to supply original complience paperwork)

Thanks everyone. Yeah thats the RTA page I was looking at, I also rang the RTA technical enquiries today, the guy I spoke to said I need a compliance plate and a blue slip, but he said there were tons of other factors that can stop it being registered, especially mods, but he wouldnt tell me what any of those factors were despite me asking several times. I might ring again tomorrow and see if I get someone else.

The seller has listed the mods as

Nistune ecu

eboost controller

spitfire coil packs

Everything else is stock, it has stock exhaust, body kit, wheels, engine bay photo looks stock

Im talking with Skit at the moment about buying his GT-T, and I have a full mechanical inspection lined up next week. He doesn't have the import papers though, hopefully the fact that its currently registered and it has a compliance plate is enough.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/384590-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-t-sedan/page__p__6134961#entry6134961

Im pretty sure one of the truck dealers we buy trucks through here does blue slips, hopefully they do cars as well as trucks as we have a good working relationship with them, might pop around in the morning.

I would think you would be hard done by getting done for replaced coilpacks or Nistuned board (especially since it appears no different). They might pick on the boost controller.

You would be best talking to someone who does AUVIS, tell him what it's had done and guage his response.

I just read a 77 page document from the RTA site regarding AUVIS and esafety certs trying to pick-up on any import/modification specific guidelines but there wasn't much. It seems that the RTA don't like telling us exactly what their inspectors are looking for, if there is any detailed info on their site, I would say it's buried deeper than a matchbox car in a gay mans arse.

He doesn't have the import papers though, hopefully the fact that its currently registered and it has a compliance plate is enough.

Wasn't in my case. I thing the blue slip place can request it via Canberra just a PITA. There's so many different stories and rules best to just tick it all off upfront.

I went down to one of the blue slip places here in Wagga, he said I will need to put a stock ecu back in and no boost controller and should be easy enough, especially if Skid still has the stock ecu. And he said I need import paperwork too which can be a pain, being a govt department and all it might take quite a few weeks, blaargghh. At least now I know its legal to be registered in NSW

if its not a WOV and has never been reg in NSW before then just a compliance plate is all that is needed, i can do a blue slip for you, Pro Automotive 1b/11 Hannabus Place, Mcgraths hill, NSW, 2756 Ph: 02 45877755

'scuse my noobness, but whats a wov? Im new to skylines and not really up to speed with things, especially terminology and the mechanical side. No idea if its ever been rego'ed in NSW or not. Unfortunately Im in Wagga so not really close, then again, I can always drive up for one of the cruise weekends, especially if you come "Terry Recommended" TM

WOV = written off vehicle

Well if you do come up this way im happy to do one for you. Or anyone else in these forums, best thing for everyone to do is just give me a ring and talk to me on the phone and i am sure there is something we can come up with :yes:

As for the aftermarket ECU and boost controller, if its not seen then i cant see it :whistling:

Haha, I thought it may have been something to do with write off but I couldn't figure out the V, I had a few things running through my head. Damn Mondays

written off accident

written off car

written off wreck

but couldn't get the V

Cool cheers I might give you a ring tomorrow to run a few things by you, always good to get a second opinion, especially when its a grey area.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...