Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well Scott's did 13.9 with more power. It's getting the barges off the line that counts. I have no doubt he would demolish mine in a roll on.

Hope you can stall it up with boost. Will be fast if you can.

Not likely, it wont even start. lol.

Luckily I got it going to get it off the dyno and onto the car trailer, when I got it home the damn thing was hydro-locked. Off with the heads next week for a check, if all's good I will replace the head gaskets, fit the ARP L19's and try again.

nice work guys, i was planning on running tomorrow but weather is shocking so ill have to wait till a day where its clear lets see waht stock power vs. now 300kw does

Yours will be a very interesting run mate, I wouldn't be surprised if you can get into the 12's with better tyres. Lighten it up as much as you can... :)

  • Replies 179
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Best I could do was back up my 12.3,

Clutch didn't seem to like 300+kW+Drag launches+fat heavy car and is now rather f**ked.

I wont be buying another exedy clutch as it only lasted 9 drag launches and 10k km of fairly sensible street driving most of it on 280kW.

DVS JEZ what would you suggest? Car isn't driven daily and pedal weight is less of a concern but i would like to maintain some feel and not go back to the on/off switch HKS twin plate i had in it.

Edited by numleg

Sounds all to familair.....I have done 2 trips to the drags and done 2 clutches.....both were built by Race clutch

The 2nd one I killed actually had its last day on the street. It fused the carbonic clutch plate to the flywheel

and would not dis-engage. 4200lb single plate

I have just had a complete new clutch and billet flywheel installed. The factory flywheel was in bad shape with a blue heat ring around around the face where the linings ran. Clutch is a NPC this time. Will see how long it lasts...

The car is arount 1650kg

Trap speed was consistantly 185kph+ this should be good for a 12.00 or faster.

best 60 foot time was 1.8

This car won't see track time only street and drag. I have a 180 for track/drift/stupidshit.

I'm looking at what i can get local today otherwise i will order the nismo compermix comp $2200 from RHD Japan delivered isn't too bad but thats still a lot of cash.

My GTR runs an exedy cushion button twin plate. Even my missus can drive it. Has seen alot of abuse and circuit racing.

How much does ur car weigh?

Wht MPH did u run?

Edited by numleg

The car is arount 1650kg

Trap speed was consistantly 185kph+ this should be good for a 12.00 or faster.

best 60 foot time was 1.8

This car won't see track time only street and drag. I have a 180 for track/drift/stupidshit.

I'm looking at what i can get local today otherwise i will order the nismo compermix comp $2200 from RHD Japan delivered isn't too bad but thats still a lot of cash.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...