Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

650rpm + - 50rpm is normal. In neutral without electrical / ac load.

If anything else- advise cleaning the throttle body, and doing the idle reset procedure.

Oh, and tacho is generally not that accurate. Mine reads quite high compared to what the ECU sees via computer. Don't ask me why...

Edited by PN-Mad

VQ25det's are around 650 when warm although mine sat quite happily at 550 in summer.

Dunno about the 3.5's as I am still waiting for mine :( but I can't imagine they'd be much different to the V35 sedan idle (~650 as Alex said)

Ok, we got the VQ35 and it's been idling around the 1500rpm (with a bit of fluctuation either side) mark. When you first start it up it revs up around 2000 then drops down...

Was kind concerned as to why it was idling so high.

I'm not much a mechanical hands on guy, specially in this car, but whats the best way to clean the throttle body? Also what's the procedure to reset the idle.

thanks for the help guys

Re-post of a PM to another member.

http://forums.nicocl...ng-t356397.html

Points to note. Disconnect your batter before going to disconnect the TB. You'll see if its dirty. Mines held on by 4 allen key bolts. Some people say that the TB is coated in some special stuff to stop it fouling up, and this special coat is lost when you hit it with carb cleaner. I figure if you look at it and see its all fouled up, then that special stuff hasn't worked and you have to clean it anyway!

MOST important thing- dont move the plate one mm. don't touch scrub push etc etc the plate. just spray it and around it with brake cleaner / tb cleaner. It will be mostly black on the plenum side- this gunk makes it stick to the housing and prevents it correcting the idle properly.

Re-assemble everything and complete all the steps in the link. Sometimes you get it in one, sometimes it takes a lot of attempts to get the timing right. Your idle should self control- go high, then low and settle as per the insutrctions.

There has been people do this and not successfully re-set their idle, I think the TB was catus.

Have fun!

Anything to add?

Oh, 1500 is way to high. Its possible that it has been cleaned and not re-set to self learn idle.

Edited by PN-Mad

When I did mine; it was doing a couple of odd things.

When rolling to a stop or idling along in traffic; it would idle too high, and fight you on the brake until stationary. Then the idle would drop, but not to 650rpm.

When starting; it would do a funny little hiccup, as if the fuel pump hadn't primed properly; then the idle would settle; again not at 650rpm, normally a bit higher.

When I opened it up; I was quite disappointed. I expected it to be absolutely filthy, as most other people had discovered. Still, I flushed it clean, and I too lost the painted on coating at the sides of the throttle plate.

It obviously worked though; when I refitted it, I had no more histrionics or issues, and it definitely idled higher. A quick Idle re-learn; bang on 650rpm, everytime.

The coating is this stuff apparently; http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=740EN

Easiest way to clean it is to remove and then just spray using the little plastic nozzle included with this

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Aerosols/Throttle_Body_and_Carby_Cleaner/#.T5SeW6uP_qc

I used it on the Magna's TB last week which had what looked like a chocolate mud cake on it.

Just sprayed (no wiping) and it all came off, was quite impressed actually. Then just soaked up any excess fluid with a rag, let dry for 10 mins, all done :)

Having pulled one apart, there isnt much damage you could do by opening the butterfly and cleaning it. It will rev higher due to being cleaned though and the idle would have to be reset. If the ecu cant get the idle below 700 it wont set it so if there are any leaks (pcv, manifold, hoses) it will stay at high idle.

Iain, I know what you mean. I wouldn't have thought it made a difference either. However I have heard of plenty of stories of people who had cleaned it, moved it and had subsequent dramas (mostly G35s and the like). So I just took the safest route, which was not to move it at all. You have to use a bit more cleaner to do it that way, but I figure if it saves dramas, then its worth it. It's just my 2c.

i meant the stupid people in the US

people that probably shouldnt be touching or removing parts from their car

Oh, so 100% true.

If there is a was to #@!% it up, a yank will find a way....

Just imagine them all cleaning it with a wire brush... :yes:

Oh awesome. Thanks for the reply guys.

I shall suss it all out tomorrow and see how it goes. Might take it slow so I do it right. If anyone will f**k anything up I will lol...

So with that link to the Rest Procedure Alex, do I do all of the procedures? Just want to clarify

yeah, run through all of them. I found it worked best when I did all of them.

I found it was far easier to take the whole top plenum off, and then remove the TB from that, but it might be a bit intimidating if your not into DIY. Any questions, just post them up.

Good luck mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...