Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

*****WA ONLY SORRY******

Hi all,

One of the forum members here in WA, Dsturbd, has kindly offered to hook some members up with a great deal on brake components, in particular DBA 4000 slotted rotors and matching performance pads. I know i'm in need of some and a few people have also expressed a casual interest so I figure a group buy may be in order.

Pricing has not been confirmed yet and obviously depends on numbers but bank around $250 each rotor and $65 for a set of pads. (Purely guesses)

If you are interested, please note your interest within this thread. I'll post more info on products and pricing when available.

Products:

DBA 4000 series Slotted rotors (no cross drilled as they tend to crack)

Bendix Ultimate Pads

Greenstuff Pads

Feredos Pads - apparently better than greenstuff

Prices:

Rotors - $245 each (4000 Series)

Pads - $45 set (Bendix Ultimates)

Pads - $230 set (Greenstuff)

Pads - $180 set (Feredos)

Fluid - $65 litre (Elf Brake Fluid)

If you would like to place an order, please PM dsturbd directly.

:D

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39789-eoi-brake-rotors-and-pads/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah, that's them, the big shiny metal discs. I'm particularly looking at the slotted rotors as these will dissapait heat quicker than standard rotors. Won't necessarily pull you up harder. Pads will do that. A combination of good pads and good rotors = better braking. Good pads + stock rotors = slightly better braking though also.

If you want more info on the actual product go to http://www.dba.com.au

:D

just be aware you have to get correct series

one of the DBA skylines series has a known warping issue with general road use on a skyline. They last on average 4 weeks then u need a new set.

the 4000 club spec series are teh goods though got them on my car very happy with them

One question: Slotted AND cross-drilled are prone to cracking? WTF ?

How the hell can all the rally cars/supercars use cross-drilled if they are prone to cracking?

If the stock rotors were drilled then I'd probably agree, but aftermarket (and specifically designed) drilled rotors should be better, and cracking shouldn't be an issue...

Anyone shed some light on the subject?

Plus the fact that slotted/drilled look WAY more horn!

Driver, yeah, you can use stock calipers.

Kym, from what i've been told, the cross drilled rotors work better when hot, and kept hot (like in circuit racing/rallying etc.) rather than constantly warming up and cooling down like they would on a street application. This apparently causes them to crack. However, i'm no brake expert but that's what i've been told. Of course it could be :bs!:

Judged, yeah, rears as well i'm sure. I'll confirm with Dstrubd, next time he's online.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...