Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why is that Alex? Its only dumping 10-15 degrees of timing for 3 seconds or so. Should be interesting to see the flames, lol.

I have to get this barge off the line somehow. Craig sent me this link...

I just love seeing the stuff you come up with and actually get to work. It sure needs a hand to get off the line, maybe an extra litre would help :P

I have to slow my response down low...

No exhaust just poked the dump pipe, yerh foot to the floor.

But I can't understand y I'm stuck at 2200rpms when im trying to stall it up? Shouldn't it let me go beyond?

Not with a 2200 rev stall converter. If you want it to take off hard you went too big with your turbo, now you have to match the stally to the lag you bought yourself. Mine is a 3000 stall converter and it may be for sale soon. I will probably be heading for 3500 stall with 6 lockup clutches instead if 1. (if Kewish can sort me out with one...)

anti lag? you did not tell me of this scott :P

Cihan and I were talking about it, seeing I don't want to go too big with the stall converter and I don't want to spool the turbo with NOS I have very little choice at the moment.

Yes Alex, the 3.5 will help but that isnt getting a plain rebuild, if I ever get the funds I will be shooting for big numbers, too big for a Stagea to handle I believe. ;)

is this wire cut mod only limited to turbo stag's? what about v35s?

I have no idea, I would assume there is something similar in their ecu. Do you have a link to the ECU pinouts? I will have a look if you can find it...

I don't think that the V35/PM35/z33 throttle restriction is based off the same process as the NM35.

I believe its more of a electronic throttle table, that will only allow a specific percentage (or volts to be precise) of throttle opening at X load Y RPM. Not based off the brake signal as far as I can tell. I base this off the fact that I can alter the values in my tuning software. Anyone who has driven both cars will realise the difference.

No pic.

The VQ25dd ecu uses the same plug as the VQ25det so it should be similar but without the pinouts youre flying blind. I have the full M35 electrical book in front of me but I can't read Japanese...

I don't think that the V35/PM35/z33 throttle restriction is based off the same process as the NM35.

I believe its more of a electronic throttle table, that will only allow a specific percentage (or volts to be precise) of throttle opening at X load Y RPM. Not based off the brake signal as far as I can tell. I base this off the fact that I can alter the values in my tuning software. Anyone who has driven both cars will realise the difference.

I too can adjust the throttle sensitivity but the restriction is different, have you hooked up the software to see if you get 100%tps at stall? Perhaps its gone now with the re-flash?

yeah ive only got a jap version too

some v35s come with the factory snow/power switch that does the same throttle reduction/increase in sensitivity. i keep mine on snow 99% of the time but it has shown no improvement in economy... still 12.6L/100km

Snow will take off in second usually although I haven't played with the switch much in mine.

each car is different obviously, in my case it still uses first, throttle response appears to be around 10% of normal, revs stay below 2500rpm, and no kickback.

yeah ive only got a jap version too

some v35s come with the factory snow/power switch that does the same throttle reduction/increase in sensitivity. i keep mine on snow 99% of the time but it has shown no improvement in economy... still 12.6L/100km

Wat?

So, you put it in snow 99% of the time, but it doesn't improve economy, so in essence your driving around a car that feels like shit for no benefit! I see no point!

The one and only time I use snow is when I'm putting the car up on ramps- because it locks front /rear torque. It will just drive up the ramp easy (obviously you don't have awd...)

Scotty, I haven't done a throttle % map, and it is different now. I have a completely different ecu, even to most of the V35's, as its a Gen 2 Ecu- Runs widebands not narrowbands from factory. But there is just no way there is the NM35 style restriction on our Ecus- stock, there isn't the torque of the turbo motor!

Wat?

So, you put it in snow 99% of the time, but it doesn't improve economy, so in essence your driving around a car that feels like shit for no benefit! I see no point!

i only just calculated the economy after noticing the factory economy meter hadnt dropped....

using the switch is now just to make takeoff alot smoother... as the pedal is way too sensitive on the other settings.

No exhaust just poked the dump pipe, yerh foot to the floor.

But I can't understand y I'm stuck at 2200rpms when im trying to stall it up? Shouldn't it let me go beyond?

As Scott said its due to the stock stall converter. Should work fine for the stock turbo....well it works great on my setup...

oh ok just realised you had a 3071...hmmm yeah no boost for you LOL

  • 1 year later...

i only just calculated the economy after noticing the factory economy meter hadnt dropped....

using the switch is now just to make takeoff alot smoother... as the pedal is way too sensitive on the other settings.

The pedal is way to sensitive....grow a set! This is a V6 not a nissan micra. Get over it or get another car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...