Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Installed a boost controller tonight n car was running fine on 10psi, after giving it a bit of stick in now idles from 1000rpm right up to 2000rpm at idle by itself and while driving?? Checked for vac leaks and cnt find any? Confused :(

Aac valve clean?

Block off cold start valve.

Does it idle normally if you switch it off for a second then start it again?

Mine does that. Blocking the cold start valve helped but didnt fix

come to think of it... it started on mine after i installed the boost controller.

I got the HKS evc4, what one do you have?

Maybe we should unhook the boost controllers and see.

My car revs to 2grand and back to 1200 constantly at idle not jst sit at 2000 if that helps...

My experience is that that sort of idle indicates a fairly significant air leak. It could be in the boost controller, but you need to closely inspect every vacuum hose, especially the larger ones (like PCV to rocker hose).

I think it's mechanic time, I stripped nearly all pipes n hoses today on the engine to inspect them, cleaned AAC, I'm not sure witch one is the cold start valve, I tried adjusting the tps, and aic? Still got no clue :(

Hmmm....

After reading that id say the ECU is the problem.

With all the upgrades it needs tuning.

Well thats next on my list anyway, im just trying to get as much sorted out as i can before i get the ECU and tune.

So i might let the mechanic sort this one out.

wow i have exactly the same problem!!! It only happens on first start up and has to warm up to go back to normal. after i turn the car off and back on again it idles at 1000, it is very annoying, and this can be just sitting idling there, warm up for 10 mins with touching nothing, turn car off, turn car back on again with touching nothing and it is fine.

nothing gets touched or changed except it is restarted once warm and its fine, though if its not warm enough the idle creeps back up to 2500 until restarted again...

  • 1 month later...

The car is designed to do what it is doing, the ecu is seeing the revs rising whilst the tps is at 0 and goes into decel to control the revs once the revs are low enough go back to normal and the revs climb again. It will keep repeating the process! My rb26 was doing this for ages and no mechanic could fix it! I end up finding the problem myself, mine was a bent butterfly on cylinder 1, ur engine is getting a significant leak from somewhere between the throttle and the head. Could be buggered throttle shaft seals or any of the gaskets between there snd the head! Even the injector seals! Either way its a air leak.

How much boost were u running when it happened? What engine and where are u? I could give u a hand to try fix it if u r local to me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...