Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it's mostly a case-by-case basis. depending on how good condition the specific car is.

have a read of this, things to check for when inspecting an old z

http://www.zdriver.com/forum/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/280zx-common-problems-checklist-purchase-inspection-16386/

as well as the usual rust inspection for old cars

Thanks for the link, i think i've read that somewhere, would you say a R31 (with 100k Kms) would be better?

They're the same price.

The Zx looks to be in good condition (completely un-modified with OEM wheels and radio still on) and apparently no rust. I may check it out today, but i've been told by some that it's bullet-proof and others that it's only good for a project

what are you wanting out of the car? what are you planning on using it for? how much are they wanting for it? if it's going to be a daily driver and you simply want it for getting from A to B then there are probably better choices out there, unless it's dirt cheap. but if it's dirt cheap then you have to ask why it's dirt cheap.

Well it's 2.5k, looks as though he has another one, yeah i want it to be a A-B car with some fun on the side. I was wondering why its so cheap considering the money the guy has poured into it.

This thread isn't needed anymore however, have decided to just go with an R31, will be more reliable and suited to me than the 280 will be (Until the future).

  • 2 weeks later...

I think the R31 is quite a deal lighter than the 280ZX isn't it?

Wasn't exactly aiming at performance, as you shouldn't when looking for a first car, you'll be only let down.

But, however, disappointment is one thing i have not felt with the 31. Amazing car!! Reliable, Agile, Fast enough for me and very comfy.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Started sifting thru my brakes to decide which ones I will run on Clem   Made me think I should just put them all on Silver...for when brake fade just isn't an option   Should be able to bump rotor up from 343x32 to 348x36 off Supra. Not sure if the Supra annulus is right for the Alcons or APs but trying g to find a used Supra\M4 rotor to test fit The Alcons seem to gain 1-2mm clearance which all helps  
    • So car is getting a few mods to the cage and some jacking points welded in Meantime Ol Silver gets a new gearbox and shiny clutch.  Old Box is being set aside for Clem  
    • Probably speedometer itself if the odometer is ticking. If the needle is stuck from a bit of grease or something that can cause it to stay at 0. Or a cracked solder joint in the speedometer can do it too.
    • Thanks Fella’s   to take this off topic and to elaborate a bit more. I have an rb25/30 going into a r32 GTST.. expected to make around 600-700hp. Would you?   A) R34 GTT box   B) CD00#?  I’ve seen a few posts about the CD swap and sounds fairly involved with making it fit etc but if it’s worth the work then I’ll go that way
    • Lower at the hubs. Funny I forgot to mention that part. Do this pull here I turned the camera off too soon but the graph shows a drop at the top and that was because the pipe from the turbo blew off. The tuner said we could’ve made possibly another 15 whp. He also added if I switched to ethanol we could up the boost some more as well. I was comfortable capping it at the most of 20 pounds. Turns out the turbo pipe just needed a new worm clamp. Got home replaced that then did a third gear pull from 3k to 7200 rpm and the power was great to the top. I just got an ecu mounting bracket from IEE that I need to try and get everything to fit well. It’s a PITA to get the harness and ecu fit properly behind that kick plate 
×
×
  • Create New...