Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does your overdrive button work at all? Mine stop working, It was in overdrive all the time and now and then the button would work and could take it out of overdrive... Yeah it what we thinking what it was doing... Playing with the button now, You can see the pin with the plate going for over the place when you push the button in and out.

I know with mine, the faster you went, the wrost it got. It sould like you got the same stutter as me...

What happens when it starts to stutter and you take it out of overdrive and then put in back in? With mine when the overdrive button worked, It would stop for a while and then would start away.

Would take the overbutton out and see how the pin moving around when you push it in and out and also take it apart and clean it, Clean mine few times and it did work of abit. Also take the gear lever out and check to the wines for the overdrive to see if they are not broken ect

I know mine off trademe. they are hard to find... But try trademe and the nissan place in chch...

Yeah the OD button seems to work ok. If I'm cruising and it starts to stutter, I can back off throttle, punch throttle or turn off OD and it will stop. But if I stop if by turning off OD, it will usually start stuttering again (while not in OD) within a minute. That's whats the transmission guy thought was strange - it stutters out of OD.

I'll check out the OD connection once I have the radiator back in (pump and belt change in progress).

So does it stutter in 3rd gear? My old gear box does a stutter in 3rd gear before we swap the gears over.

We going pull down the old gearbox in next few weeks and see if what we can find and we going to send the old torque converter to be cut open and see what going on with it.

I'm sure it the torque converter/gearbox/overdrive.

Ill let you know what we find.

Have you sign up to SDU?

So does it stutter in 3rd gear? My old gear box does a stutter in 3rd gear before we swap the gears over.

We going pull down the old gearbox in next few weeks and see if what we can find and we going to send the old torque converter to be cut open and see what going on with it.

I'm sure it the torque converter/gearbox/overdrive.

Ill let you know what we find.

Have you sign up to SDU?

If by 3rd gear you mean Drive without OD then yeah it does.

Keen to know what you find out about your old box - sounds similar to mine.

Haven't joined SDU - didn't seem to be much (any) technical/mechanical info there...

  • 2 months later...

Hey hutchwilco, How are you geting on with your Stagea? Found the problem yet?

I sold my Stagea few months back :(

I've only just got it back into one piece - did cambelt, (water pump (was leaking)) etc then found the rear shocks had leaked out, and brakes were skewee so only bout to start it up again in months. I found while I was doing the cambelt that the exhaust cam was one notch -7.5 deg - retarded, dunno if that could cause some kind of stutter but we'll see.

I see a transmission on tardme for 80 so I might buy that as insurance. Should know by next week if the stutter is still there.

yep cheers, will have to test both those theories. I bought a consult kit for nothing on trademe, so will set that up to watch what the solenoids doing.

Thing is it stutters when not in OD. guess that could still be a rogue activating solenoid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...