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R34 Engine Problem

Grey

By Grey,
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Grey Community Regular

Grey

Posted
Posted

Okay, this is the problem. Last week the car was fine and all of a sudden it has no more power and misfiring really bad. Check engine light DID NOT come on or any other light that was out of the ordinary. Went to a exhaust shop because I thought it was the catalytic converter, turns out, I'm running on only FIVE cylinders.

Other symptoms include:

- Loss of acceleration

- When holding both window buttons down or up on idle, the RPMs drop from about 700-800 to 300rpm.

- Unburnt fuel smell coming from exhaust

- Exhaust making a 'chug', 'chug', 'chug' sound

Just then, I took apart all the coilpacks and sparkplugs to do a compression test and it turns out that cylinder no.2 is giving a drastically lower pressure reading compared to the rest of the cylinders. Now I've been told that this could be due to a valve problem within the engine. I really need a diagnosis on the problem so I can fix it and drive again, so if anyone on these forums could give me some advice it will be well appreciated!

Car: 1999 R34 Naturally aspirated coupe - remains stock as rock.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that I've replaced the coilpacks and sparkplugs 9 months ago with the best and longest lasting ones eg Yellow Jackets and iridium spark plugs i think, so it's definitely not the coil+sparkies.

EDIT2: Forgot to mention the compression test results (dry) from cylinder 1-6: 125, 80, 117, 113, 110, 115

Thanks!

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DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Haha best and longest lasting ones. Because its running on 5 cylinders its easier to diagnose.

Start by:

Starting engine, then 1 by 1 disconnect a coilpack and see which one doesnt affect the engine sound.

Whenu find which cylinder is it. Try swapping a coilpack from another cylinder to the dud cylinder. Then if it doesnt fix the issue, try swapping a spark plug from a different cylinder.

Pull all the spark plugs out and keep them in order. Is there one that is different to the rest?

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Never rule anything out until u test it. Takes 15 minutes.

Do a wet compression test to see if the compression rises.

Did u do a test at operating temp? Was the throttle held fully open when cranking?

80psi should still be enough to run. If its a valve issue causing a missfire u would expect no comp in that cylinder.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

would a dirty injector cause misfire at that cylinder?

You would notice it on the spark plugs, the cylinder would be running lean so the spark plug would indicate as such. I'd start with that, pull the plugs and check that they are all the same. Always start with the things that are the cheapest and easiest to check and then work your way from there :thumbsup:

Grey Community Regular

Grey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

okay, i will take it apart again and do a wet compression test, and at the same time I'll post a pic of all the coils and sparkies so you guys can help see if they are the problem. if not then the engine might be failing and it's time for a transplant =[ results soon to come....

Grey Community Regular

Grey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay, DRY compression result tests again since my friend did it wrong the first time.

150, 145, 148, 149, 144, 146

WET compression test result on cylinder 1 and 2:

168, 171

So from these results it's DEFINITELY NOT the engine itself, but the coilpacks and spark plugs. They are new yellow jacket coilpacks, probably 9months old and has about 8000kms on them. They are also NEW iridium spark plugs NGK BKR5EIX-11. After 8000kms do the spark plugs normally screw up? Cause I'm seriously not looking forward to buying new coilpacks after 400 ish spent on yellow jackets last year....

Here is the pics of the spark plugs:

From LEFT to RIGHT spark plugs 1->6

post-82259-0-24061100-1335440728_thumb.jpg

Let me know if you guys need more photos. Wiring, connectors and coilpacks look fine.

Grey Community Regular

Grey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Additional info:

I just used nissan datascan to shut each individual cylinder off after replacing the spark plug in cylinder 2, when i shut cylinder 2 off, nothing happens, which means it's still cylinder two. I'm thinking it will be either the coilpack cable now, or just the coilpack itself. Any suggestions?

I just had a thought, I'll be swapping the coilpack from cylinder 2 to cylinder 6 to see if cylinder 6 fails, if it does, GREAT. If it doesn't it rules out spark plugs, coilpacks and leads to coilpack wiring.

Is there a voltage meter test I can use on the coilpack to see if it's working properly?

Thanks!

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

So i saved u the cost of a rebuild. Thats why u always recheck and diagnose.

Yes as i described before swap cylinder 2 coilpack with another ie cyl 1 coilpack and see which one is misfiring. If cylinder 1 is misfiring then u need another coilpack. Yellow jackets are known to fail. U can get the 1 replaced or save up and get some splitfires for $550ish.

If cyl 2 is still missfiring then the issue may be in the wiring, the spark plug or the injector.

Let us know how u go when u swap the coilpacks

Grey Community Regular

Grey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I swapped cylinder no.2s coilpack with cylinder no.1, after reassembling, cylinder 1 has stopped working based on my ECU test from Nissan Datascan. So it's definitely the coilpack issue like 99% of the other issues here, I was too blind to think it was since I got them new about 9months ago. Trying to get warranty off performance wise now....Thanks for everyone's help!

itshimdazza Rising Star

itshimdazza

Posted
Posted

  • i had the same problem with a yellow jacket as well less than one month from performance wise. asked me to send that coil back and I said I had nothing to replace it with and in good faith (after many emails) they sent another box of 6 so I could send back my originals to them...
    In the end good service..

Dazza

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