Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers guys, will get the belts checked out, replace any that look a bit suss, and keep the old ones as spares just in-case. Will also have a look at that bleed valve. What's one of them worth to replace?

Also noticed that the rolling diameter of my spare is slightly larger than my current wheels, one of my engineering mates assured me it'd be fine for an emergency drive to the nearest servo/mechanic to get a tyre repaired/replaced likened it to driving around a slight corner while going straight if that makes sense. Cause the body to sit slightly off etc. Only querying as I've read about people having issues with different rolling diameters on front vs rear etc causing shuddering and the like in the 4wd system.

Tools are sorted.

Was thinking a bonnet/bumper cover or some sort, but then realised mine is already stonechipped to the sh*t so not a lot of point :closedeyes:

Will also have a look at that bleed valve. What's one of them worth to replace?

Normally I sell them in a block cooling kit, but I have a spare s/h one here without the extra hose in the bottom if you simply want to replace the stock bleeder. (or keep this one as a 'just in case')

  • 3 weeks later...

Made it! Car needs a good wash, the under bumper protector tried its damndest to come off, nothing some cable ties and duck tape couldn't fix, the air bag light decided to come on about 1000km out from Sydney, and i think I may need a new BOV after getting made dose pipe/turbo flutter sounds when cruising up hills at a steady 70-80km/h.

ahh this is perfect - were planning a drive at the start of October in my series 1 stagea from Melbourne to Caloundra music festival, about 2000km and was wondering what things to be taking with me

ironing out all the kinks over the next few months will be key and dropping down the fuel consuption, im getting around 14 - 15 per 100k so be nice to get that down to 12 or so to save some serious coins :)

Yeah not sure what fuel will be like along that route, but I did pay something in the order of $2.20 a litre along the nullabor so even getting it down just 1 or 2L/hundred k will eventually add up. My car managed to get economy below 10. I was extremely surprised and got 9.6L/100km for at least 2 legs of the trip. Probably averaged in the low 10's though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...