Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Put redline lightweight in my car r32 gtst. I reckon its all wank about how good it is if anything the g/box is a little crunchier. I'd guess/say on most people just changing the oil made the difference! Couldn't justify the $110 next time.

On the short shifter.

The short shifter only presents a wear issue due to overselection that doesn't occur unless you rest your hand on the shifter whilst driving along (a stupid thing to do regardless of a short shifter) and 'ramming' the gear selection with Arnie-like power. Other than that there is no difference to a normal shifter and the kind of oil you run.

Well i went to get some gear oil, called them up first and they said $50 for 1L... ended up they were quoting me for engine oil... so i specified that i wanted Redline Lightweight Shockproof Geabox Oil... made sure he understood, and he then said $25.25 so that sounded better... then he corrected himself again and said it was actually $20.25. So i said i'll take two 1L bottles and i'm coming to get it now (only neede 2 for a top up after spillage when gearbox was removed)... i get there, paid for parking, and he then says he made a mistake and it was actually $33 per litre... wouldn't budge on price when i told him everywhere else was $28... dirty biatch. If i hadn't needed it that badly i would have told him to kiss it and got it from somewhere else when more stock arrived. And the fact that i'd driven all that way and paid for parking!!! This better be good oil... otherwise i'll be going to VMX80 next time at $9 per 1L

Well i went to get some gear oil, called them up first and they said $50 for 1L... ended up they were quoting me for engine oil...

$50/Litre for Redline engine oil?!?!?!?

HOOOOOOOOOOOOLY CARP!!!!!! eek3.gifeek3.gifeek3.gifeek3.gif

yeah... what a rip!!!

well i got the gearbox oil in... but there is a little story behind it now. Dad has this bottle that has a pipe in the top with a tap on it (so you can control flow) and a air valve in the top next to where the pipe goes into the bottle... you put the oil in the can, pump it up and the air pressure in the can forces the oil out the pipe with the tap in it. Well i was under the car controlling the flow and dad is pumping up the bottle. The first litre goes in fine so i empty the second bottle in. Under the car i go again and dad pumps it up a bit... it's flowing nicely... i said pump it a little more but not too much... so what does he do? pumps it 10 times and the pressure blows the pipe off the bottle... so my $30 geabox oil is spraying all over the road and there's nothing i can do about it but try and get the pipe back on the bottle as i get hosed in green oil. Consequently i now don't have enough in the gearbox so i have to find someone else in melbourne that has Redline and i have to do it all over again tomorrow and piss away another $30.

Not happy about that at all

yeah what a rip...

Well i get home jack up the car and dad brings out this can that has a pipe with a 'tap' on it... you put the bike pump on one side and pump it up and it forces the oil out of the can through the pipe with the tap on it... anyway i'm under the car and dad is pumping. The first litre goes in fine so i fill up the can again and back under the car i go... i said pump a little more but not too much... what does he do?? gives it about 10 quick pumps and blows the hose off the can... so my $32 oil is flowing all over the road and there is nothing i can do about it but get covered in it as I try to get the pipe back on the can. Consequently there is not enough oil in the gearbox so now i have to find someone that has more oil, spend another $30 and do it again tomorrow. I cracked it at him and he then cracks it back at me and said it was my fault for telling him to pump it...

Not happy about it!

  • 4 months later...

I wouldn't leave my oil in for 400,000kms, but then I wouldn't change it at 10,000kms either.

I'm no mechanic but 50,000kms sounds like a nice round figure to me. Obviously it would

have a lot to do with what you use your car for (drags etc.).

I imported my car November 2002. I put Redline Shockproof Light in my car Feb 2003, because I had crunching when cold and crunching 1-2 & 3-4 with spirited (not stupid) shifts.

After about 500kms with Redline my gearbox improved. When cold there was the slightest notch from 1-2, When hot it would only crunch 1-2 with moderate to hard shift. I ran this oil for 25,000kms with no other probs.

In August 2004 I had to replace clutch so I decided to give Redline Shockproof Heavy a go.

I have done about 1000kms with it. If I am not careful it crunches from 1-2 when cold. When hot it doesn't matter how hard I change it will not crunch.

http://www.redlineoil.com.au/reseller-locations.asp

I would not pay over $120 for Shockproof, check link and ring around

yeah i figured that i'm not going to be changing it very often so why not pay the extra $50 over the cost of other oils. Everyone that uses it says it's great so that's a good enough reason for me. The only thing i hear people whinge about it is the price. I have light weight and think it's pretty good.

Andrew

  • 1 month later...

I had a problem with shifting from 3rd to 4th. I put the castrol syntrax in and it got worse. Started crunching sometimes from 2nd to third and always from 4th to 5th. So I put the redline lightweight shockproof in and the problems were gone immediately. Since leaving the workshop it has never crunched in any gear.

What a difference!

  • 4 weeks later...

I picked up my r33 gtst from the dealer it was back there that week due to 1st to 2nd gear crunchey and the shifter moveing up and down in 2nd they put the redline in it has now been 5000ks and its getting better all the time

also the 2nd gear syncro is going to die first and you can not replace case hardend steel or brass with oil it will mask the prob for a bit

Guest two.06l
I had a problem with shifting from 3rd to 4th.  I put the castrol syntrax in and it got worse.  Started crunching sometimes from 2nd to third and always from 4th to 5th.  So I put the redline lightweight shockproof in and the problems were gone immediately.  Since leaving the workshop it has never crunched in any gear.

What a difference!

redline lightweight shockproof is the go. I dont like to think about how many smurfs they bled to make it though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...