Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is following on from my turbo no water issue..

so I pulled both hoses off turbo and started the car, no water came out of either? after a bit of thinking I put this down to cold engine and thermastat not being open, I also thought maybe a blockage, but I blew in one pipe and coolant came out the other?

I then put a bleed valve inline on one of the turbo water lines, and after taking the car for a drive to warm up and then cracking the bleed, still no water comes out ?? also after a bit of a drive, the top radiator hose is too hot to touch but I can hold the bottom one ??

The odd thing is I'm sure this has been like this for a while (couple of months) and haven't noticed the water temp gauge read any different( standard GTR gauges) and thats including doing some race events etc

What is going on with my water pump? or what could it be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398835-no-water-pressure/
Share on other sites

No, I just check some engine logging and driving around even with a few squirts it's around 82 deg. and at idle 80' ??

if it was a stuffed thermostat or pump you would of thought temps would be higher?

however I would like to rule out thermostat, so I will take it out and check it. How do I rule out water pump?

Make a check list snd work through it has it 100 tho service? I would

Remove radiator hoses and flush out the radiator for a few min. Remove thermostat and water pump flush the engine I normally use lower rad hose. Also water pumps are fairly cheap not a common thing to break but replace it if you doubt it if it's hard to turn by hand then I suggest a new one anyway or a good secondhand one. If your local I can give you a hand if you need it

Edited by Bsa

Make a check list snd work through it has it 100 tho service? I would

Remove radiator hoses and flush out the radiator for a few min. Remove thermostat and water pump flush the engine I normally use lower rad hose. Also water pumps are fairly cheap not a common thing to break but replace it if you doubt it if it's hard to turn by hand then I suggest a new one anyway or a good secondhand one. If your local I can give you a hand if you need it

engine about 20k old, so is 65mm ARC radiator, yeah start with thermostat then water pump...

cheers Blake, nah I'm in Perth, but thanks

yep all new hoses,

I did the water lines to/from the turbo, took the feed from same place as stock feed, under the intake towards the back, and returned to factory spot, top rad hose on engine?

did this about 18 months ago and there was good flow when I tested it, think I've answered my own question there.. must be thermostat or pump !?

omg are you guys kiding or just know that little about cars, water pressure has nothing to do with the pump or thermosate, it is purly from heat resulting in the coolant/water expanding, and it is this expansion that pushes water throught the turbos bypasing the thermostat to the top radiator hose.

of corse the bottom radiator hose is cool the coolant/water has been through a radiator thats whole job is to wash heat out of the coolant/water, if it was hot then there would be a problem

Edited by Joel K24 civ

Another newby on the seen I see. The water pump creates flow and yes water expands causing pressure. Also a small warning be very careful how you talk to people that have been around a while or be prepared to be written off big time also try to know people proffesions before making a comment like that

omg are you guys kiding or just know that little about cars, water pressure has nothing to do with the pump or thermosate, it is purly from heat resulting in the coolant/water expanding, and it is this expansion that pushes water throught the turbos bypasing the thermostat to the top radiator hose.

of corse the bottom radiator hose is cool the coolant/water has been through a radiator thats whole job is to wash heat out of the coolant/water, if it was hot then there would be a problem

omg fss, ok I should have said "flow" not pressure.. and the turbo feed should definately have flow when the engine is running. Well it did when I put it in. Obviously there is going to be a difference in heat between top and bottom hoses, but I would have thought if there was 80 degree water going through it, it would be hotter.

anyway seen as we all know very little and you know all, why is there no water going through my turbo now, when there was previously??

When you had the engine running with the hoses off did you rev the engine or was it just at idle...

yeah did give it a couple of rev's..

And I remember now when I first installed the lines and started the car with the line off to check for flow and coolant definately pumped out..?

although joels wording is rough he is right, there is no direct path of flow for the turbos they have a banjo fitting on the side off the block, which when the thermastat is closed is a closed system with the water circulating around the block through the head a around again, so the flow of water for the turbos comes from the water getting hotter in that closed system faster then the water outside it there fore expanding faster to and then pushing through the turbos around the thermastat to the top radiator hose where the pressure/ heat is less, then when the thermastst opens the pressure changes and the water changes direction and gets pulled back into the block in a see sawing manner,

if the its not getting hot and the temp is fairly consestent then I don't see a problem, but either start the car with radiator cap off and watch, when it gets hot and the thermastat opens the water will flow past the cap. when that happens give it a rev from the throttle cable and the water should fluctuate in the radiator, less will only happen at or near full operating temp

just cause you have been on here for a while doesn't mean you know anything, and how do you know what joel does for a living just cause he is new to SkylinesAustralia doesn't mean anything about his knowledge of cars, so get off your high horse and think about what someone writes and see if it is correct.

but by all means if the op wants to go to the expense of changing the thermastat and pump off bad advise he got off a computer then go right ahead

Costs nothing to be civil, but that seems to get missed on the internet.. lets no turn this into a bitch match.

I'll try all of the above before I go pulling stuff apart. It did have an oil only turbo on it before ( Turbonetics GTK850) since changed to TO4Z, pretty sure that hasn't had water for a while now either, still fine, just smells warm when you shut it down, want to sort it before I kill the bearings.

also I had the radiator cap off yesterday when the water was warm and there didn't seem to be flow in the radiator ? not obvious anyway?

Edited by tricstar

If you can get a snap on camera or similar you can check the waterpump impellor through the hole when the thermostat is out, saves taking all cambelt off and is a 2in1 quick check

If you wana do this I have a waterproof bore scope you can borrow Richard. But I think if there was a problem with the pump then you would have noticed when you raced last weekend. Coming to Perth tomorrow if you want it for a while

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...