No Water Pressure

[StevenCJR31]

sounds like crud or some other blockage stopping flow as even if the car in question didnt have a water pump (first cars on the road didnt) some coolant should of come out of the pipes, i doubt that the bearing on the turbo will suffer as the previous owner of my 32 blocked the turbo coolant pipes when he swapped out the RB20 turbo for a 25 turbo and the turbo is fine

[XKLABA]

Costs nothing to be civil, but that seems to get missed on the internet.. lets no turn this into a bitch match.

I'll try all of the above before I go pulling stuff apart. It did have an oil only turbo on it before ( Turbonetics GTK850) since changed to TO4Z, pretty sure that hasn't had water for a while now either, still fine, just smells warm when you shut it down, want to sort it before I kill the bearings.

also I had the radiator cap off yesterday when the water was warm and there didn't seem to be flow in the radiator ? not obvious anyway?

I missed you have a 65mm radiator on it, the problem with the skylines and big radiators is the inlet and outlet are on the same side of the radiator, so the thicker you go with the radiator then the less it spreads across the top and the more in goes in-down-out.

don't worry about bearing as the oil takes care of them, and as Jez said who needs cooling, the water cooling for the turbos is more to stop heat soaking from the exhaust side to the compressor then anything else.

[WMDC35]

I've got the Mishimoto rad, seems to work well, even on the dyno in mid summer!, no heating issues at all

[tricstar]

alright for those playing along at home, here are my findings from some tests I just carried out.. not sure if they tell us anything?

Firstly this morning when i took one of the turbo water lines off, coolant poured out?? anyway went ahead with the hose in the radiator and coolant came out both sides of the turbo.? Put my finger over the return and it still flowed out the feed.

Now where am I at ? I'm going to warm it up now to get thermostat open then in theory shouldn't I be able to bleed the turbo line through the bleed valve I've put in which sits on a 180mm riser?

I realise the water for the turbo is just there for when the engine is shut down to take away the heat soak from the bearings, my turbo guy said without it, it will reduce the life of the turbo.

Have my tests eliminated blockages and am I right to think that once the thermostat is open it should pump out my bleed valve?

Edited April 29, 2012 by tricstar

[DVS JEZ]

All seems good

[Dobz]

All seems good

^^What he said.

[tricstar]

All seems good

:banana: well now it does to everyone for your advise..

I left the car running for more than 10 minutes with the A/C on full, and watching the engine temp on my computer plugged into the motec, and it wasn't until it hit around 85degrees that I got air and then coolant out of the bleed, obviously thats when the thermostat is opening, ( higher than I thought )

judging by that, with the 65mm ARC radiator, some days the thermostat would hardly even open? is that an issue? should I look at putting a lower temp thermo in?

[XKLABA]

Have my tests eliminated blockages and am I right to think that once the thermostat is open it should pump out my bleed valve?

Yes every thing seems good wih flow, the bleed valve, I asume you are refuring to the bolt on the balance pipe above the throttle bodies, then no that should be opened when cold and gravity will bleed the system

[XKLABA]

:banana: well now it does to everyone for your advise..

I left the car running for more than 10 minutes with the A/C on full, and watching the engine temp on my computer plugged into the motec, and it wasn't until it hit around 85degrees that I got air and then coolant out of the bleed, obviously thats when the thermostat is opening, ( higher than I thought )

judging by that, with the 65mm ARC radiator, some days the thermostat would hardly even open? is that an issue? should I look at putting a lower temp thermo in?

your fastter then me at typing, system sounds good, the factory thremastat opens at 76.5deg, what we have found is there is a cavity in the head that unmodifed holds air from getting the the bleed valve and that air that came out when it got hot and expanded and there fore pushed its way out.

you can jack the drivers side up higher and that will get some of it out

your system sounds fine

[tricstar]

Yes every thing seems good wih flow, the bleed valve, I asume you are refuring to the bolt on the balance pipe above the throttle bodies, then no that should be opened when cold and gravity will bleed the system

No its got a Hypertune intake so no bleed there, I plumbed one in on the turbo feed line, because the TO4 is high mount, I wanted to be able to bleed that line as it is nearly the same height as the top of the radiator. i'm happy now I can see flow through these lines. what do you think about the thermostat and opening temps?

[XKLABA]

No its got a Hypertune intake so no bleed there, I plumbed one in on the turbo feed line, because the TO4 is high mount, I wanted to be able to bleed that line as it is nearly the same height as the top of the radiator. i'm happy now I can see flow through these lines. what do you think about the thermostat and opening temps?

where is the feed for the turbo comming from, if it from the factory turbo feed then you need to get one that conects higher in the head to get the air out from there

[XKLABA]

the colder thermastat need the cold maps on your tune changed or the cold map will be in use and it will run rich, and may even heve the auto chock on, if the motec has it active

[tricstar]

where is the feed for the turbo comming from, if it from the factory turbo feed then you need to get one that conects higher in the head to get the air out from there

It comes from the metal pipe that runs under the intake , which also looks like it feeds from the block just below the head towards the back under the intake, if that makes any sense?

[XKLABA]

It comes from the metal pipe that runs under the intake , which also looks like it feeds from the block just below the head towards the back under the intake, if that makes any sense?

perfect sense, which means the water level in side your engine is the level of the top radiator hose where it meets the engine, if you put the the front of your car on ramps and get it high as possible air should come out the radiator cap

[tricstar]

perfect sense, which means the water level in side your engine is the level of the top radiator hose where it meets the engine, if you put the the front of your car on ramps and get it high as possible air should come out the radiator cap

yep.... got ya, I did that directly after installing turbo water lines and refilling rad. when I first did them.. now after having the lines apart again I should do again

thanks heaps

[XKLABA]

no dramas

[JonnoHR31]

Don't use a low temp thermostat, they're shit. The standard one is 76.5, but its in the bottom which is the intake (coldest part of the system) whereas the temp sender is in the top hose, which is the hottest part. So 85 degrees is perfectly normal and having the thermostat closed on cold days isn't a problem, theres a bypass in the block that keeps water circulating through the motor without going through the radiator, when the thermostat opens this bypass gets blocked and the flow path changes to include the radiator.

Sounds like it's all sorted anyway.

[tricstar]

Don't use a low temp thermostat, they're shit. The standard one is 76.5, but its in the bottom which is the intake (coldest part of the system) whereas the temp sender is in the top hose, which is the hottest part. So 85 degrees is perfectly normal and having the thermostat closed on cold days isn't a problem, theres a bypass in the block that keeps water circulating through the motor without going through the radiator, when the thermostat opens this bypass gets blocked and the flow path changes to include the radiator.

Sounds like it's all sorted anyway.

Yeah did a bit of searching last night and from what I can tell the lower temp thermostat is shit, no real benefit at all and on the down side, takes longer to get up to operating temp

So yeah I'll be sticking with standard..