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Hi guys,

I'm looking into buying a car that I came across the other day. Seller offer me $11,500. KMS = 90000

It is a 2 door manual.

1 year rego and no rwc.

What is the normal price for a R34 GT-T year 1999?

AND

Is R34 a good car to get? What is the common problem to look out for?

Edited by R33 Gts-T Sedan
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I am going to take it for a full engine and turbo checked by my mechanic.

I just wanted to know, do you think a 13 year old car engine is already tired?

Is an R34 engine reliable? I don't want to keep spending money to fix faults.

Need some advice before I buy it next week.

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how long is a piece of string? There is SO many things that will determine wether the engine is tired or not. . .has it been thrashed?, has it been serviced regularly?has the correct fuel been used in it? you have no way of knowing this, your mechanic can test the engine and determine by the results as to the condition of the engine

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btw, 90000km is a no go, pretty damn sure about that. ;)

or else it would fetch a bit more

Can you explain why 90k is a no go?

The paint, the interior and the body is actually in a very good condition. Full nismo bodykit. The spoiler looks really ugly tho.

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its a common thing for exchanged speedos or wound back speedos. so dont be surpised.

in a very rare case, it will be genuine. but rarely.

So dont believe the reading, see if the guy has auction papers or jap service receipts, log books etc...

that will give you a more accurate idea

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skyline engines are pretty tough, the most common things that fail in the car are: turbo, afm, coilpacks and o2 sensor.

Yes I changed my coilpacks to splitfire for my R33 GTS-T 2 years ago. Not sure bout afm and o2 sensor but the fuel economy is really bad. 250 to 300kms per full tank. Turbo is in good condition as it never been trashed.

I hope that R34 has a good engine and turbo. Will find out in a few days.

So how much does it cost to replace the turbo to the same one

OR

Remove the turbo if it fails.

Rough figures so I know what to expect.

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So dont believe the reading, see if the guy has auction papers or jap service receipts, log books etc...

that will give you a more accurate idea

Thanks!!!! Will definitely ask for log books or anything that can prove the genuine kms.

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turbo is only available as a 2nd hand unit, and even then, they are getting old. find an equivalent size turbo to put on it, garrett or such.

wont be cheap, around the 1k mark for a same size turbo.

of for the same cash, get it rebuilt aka highflowed if it comes down to it. but that will create more lag. and lag is pretty bad as is on any skyline, dont want to increase it.

you can remove turbo and just get a "transfer" pipe from turbo to dump, but you will loose about 60% of your power and your car will run like shit. its never recommended to do that :D

coil packs, 400-600 depending on what your buying.

afm, round 200ish

o2 sensor is round 70 bucks

turbo dying can usually be heard, a high pitched whining is usually a give away, so is a heap of smoke coming out your exhaust under full throttle.

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How often will a turbo failure occur if I don't always boost it. I am a polite and average driver who does not boost if I'm not on a freeway. I will only be using the freeway mayb once a month to visit my friends. Can the turbo last 5 years? The previous owner don't often boost it as well. Engine and turbo in a good condition.

Will buy the car next week. Need to clarify this to remove any doubts that I have.

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How often will a turbo failure occur if I don't always boost it. I am a polite and average driver who does not boost if I'm not on a freeway. I will only be using the freeway mayb once a month to visit my friends. Can the turbo last 5 years? The previous owner don't often boost it as well. Engine and turbo in a good condition.

Will buy the car next week. Need to clarify this to remove any doubts that I have.

how long is a piece of string? you have a r33 now. the r34 isn't much different. all the same principles apply to the r34 as to the r33. did you do research on what to look for before you bought your r33? if so, just do the same with the r34.

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Turbo can last forever.

Your mechanic's list will include compression test, running gear, suspension, oil sludge & burning, exhaust, coolant (for oil contaminant), leaks/seepage, irregular wear and tear and rail damage, hoses/clips, rust.

Your list will include running electrics, air cond, wear on steering wheel/bolster on driver's side/carpet/key entry to barrel/pedals, worn paint of panel bolts, doors dropping on opening, paintwork, rear wheel well, rust.

We want to know if it's had a hard life so that you don't have to cop the back end of it!

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I am going to take it for a full engine and turbo checked by my mechanic.

As you have said, the car has NO rwc.

the engine and turbo are probably the least of your worries. id say it will be brakes and suspension, small leaks, and gaskets that will set you back money to get the vehicle up to road worthy condition.

i will never buy a car with no RWC when the seller said they 'dont have time to get a rwc' or 'it will pass road worthy with no problems'..

a car is the second most expensive thing you will buy/sell in your life. if you cant find an hour to get a rwc on a car that has 'no problems', than BUYER BEWARE

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i use the "no time" excuse because i simply don't have the time to take the car to a mechanic to get done. but i do take that into account when pricing the car as well. having said that, the cars i have sold "as is" have always then passed rwc's first time with no issues either. most of the stuff a car may fail a rwc for is easily checked yourself. as long as the tyres are good, there's no oil leaks, the brake pads are good and it drives well (no weird noises or vibrations) then there won't be much trouble with it passing a rwc. and besides, a car can be a complete lemon despite passing a rwc. they don't check actual condition of the engine, etc. just check that it is safe for the road. hence the fact that you can have a car pass a rwc that could be defected due to illegal mods.

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Thanks a lot guys. That was more than enough to answer my question. Car that comes with RWC does not mean anything. When I bought my R33, it comes with RWC but after I transfer the registration and take the car for a service, my mechanic told me there is an oil leak and several other problems that does not pass the RWC.

From then on I do not care bout RWC because I will rather spend $80 on a full RWC check, engine check and let my mechanic have a look at the car before I buy any car.

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