Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25Det Block Coolant Drain Bolt

zoomzoom
 Share

Recommended Posts

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

In an unpleasant face-full-of-coolant fail, I appear to have misplaced the coolant drain bolt, just under one of the oil lines going to the turbo. Can anyone confirm what the thread and pitch is? I tried a 12mm x 1.5 pitch thread, and I think the width is correct but the pitch isnt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399277-rb25det-block-coolant-drain-bolt/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Peter Community Regular

Peter

Posted
Posted

Is this on an R33 GTST? Unfortunately I can't give you the details you are after...but...can you tell me how you got to this little sucker - for years I have been draining the radiator only...thanks!

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah sorry i cant help you with it either, but as far as i could tell it was a tapered bolt I think. Go to a wrecker and grab one out of an rb30 or something similar :)

And Peter, if your car doesnt have ABS, it was possible for me to get it from the top with an extension and a knuckle thingy. Its on the rear of the block, just above the turbo water return i think!

I meant to take a picture when i did it as NOONE seems to have ever done it clearly haha, but alas, i forgot :(

Edited by gotRICE?
  • 4 weeks later...
zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Sorry about the late response as I dont get any email updates, though it looks like you have it sorted.

I used a socket > universal joint > 25cm extension beam > breaker bar

Its a pain to get to, but once you get the bolt to move, then just use a smaller socket wrench.

Also for anyones benefit, when you put it back in, remember to use a thread sealant. I used a loctite? branded one designed for sealing water, which sets in an anaerobic environment or by heat.

I should also say that even with the coolant that sprayed everywhere, I got most of the workshop manual specified quantity of coolant out. Draining the radiator by itself doesnt replace much of the coolant.

Edited by zoomzoom
gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

Yeah just dropping the radiator only gets rid of half the coolant if that. After draining mine and pulling the waterpump off i flooded the garage floor with 4+ litres of green shit. lol

You shouldnt really need any thread tape or sealant on that bolt as it is tapered. So if you dont have any i wouldnt waste your money. But in saying that, if it leaks dont yell at me :P I didnt use it on mine when i took it out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...